I guess I am where I’m supposed to be. While it was incredibly hard to say goodbye to family in Seattle, my adjustment back here has been easy. This, after it taking a full 2 days to return!
I knew I had a 12 hr layover in Frankfurt (bought a day pass to the Delta lounge for snooze and internet), but had not counted on the 6 hours spent overnight in the Casablanca airport. Seems my research left out the fact that the train from the Casa airport stops at midnight and doesn’t resume until 6am. Fortunately (or unfortunately for them) I was not alone-there were about 20 of us taking turns going horizontal on the couple of benches w/o armrests all night long. Oh well, living large in Morocco, yak?
I was also greeted by many here in town as though I had been gone a long time..”fin knti?” “twaHshtk!” (where were you? I missed you!)-they made me feel like I’m a part of the town. Nice. Hamdullah.
I shared the news with the Cooperative women of the ecommerce company’s interest in their weavings. There were several questions I needed to get answers to, and have done so. Hopefully this additional information still works for the company, as it would be a terrific (and their first) export opportunity for the Coop. Either way, it is going to be a valuable model to learn from, ie; how to identify opportunities via the internet, how to export/bill/ship/etc.
Now I’m getting ready to accompany Zahra and Fatima to Casablanca for l-merid (expo). This is only the 2nd one they will have attended since I got here (the 1st was last week in Fes when I was in the US), and the 1st opportunity I have to observe what goes on. I plan on being a sponge for the next 4 days-how the women market themselves and their products, what opportunities the expo presents for sales/networking/info gathering, who else attends and what are they selling and doing, etc. Should be a terrific learning experience.
This of course is during yet another transit strike, although this one is only supposed to be today, just for petit taxis, and we’ll be taking the bus, which isn’t impacted by the strike. Inshallah.
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Friday, April 24, 2009
Family Matters
Oh what a week it has been. How to describe how wonderful, important, emotional, heart-filling this week in Seattle has been? Can’t tell you how grateful I am to be able to have been a part of the celebration of Aunt Geri’s life and to spend the week in the comfort of the love of my family. Wow.
We celebrated Aunt Geri’s life on an overcast day in Edmonds, on the top of the Public Library (perfect as she was a school librarian all her working life) in the beautiful Plaza Room with a view of Puget Sound and spring flowers (she was a Master Gardener) blooming in the patio outside. It was an SRO crowd. It was of course remarkably emotional, as Aunt Geri really touched our lives deeply. She didn’t live on the surface-she made you feel you were her whole world when you were with her. Oh God I miss her.
Uncle Bob, Polly and Tracy put together such a wonderful program and Scott and Tracy did the most amazing food. Everyone-family and friends-pitched in for the set up and tear down as we had to be out of the room soon after the program ended. We all then gathered waterfront for dinner and drinks and continued the tears and laughter. It’s been like that all week.
Sisters Debbie and Sandy arrived from California last Sunday about ½ hour before I did and met me in baggage claim. This, despite the fact that I apparently neglected to send them my itinerary, but they knew I was coming in from Frankfurt and there were only 2 options and they picked the right one. We made our way up to Edmonds via 2203 East Louisa Street, our childhood home. Cousin Tracy had seen that the house was for sale about a month ago and had sent us the weblink for the house to look at. We decided to drive by, and since it was Sunday, they were having an open house! Needless to say, we parked and did a walk through. First place checked-was the laundry shoot from the 2nd floor to the basement still there and could you get to it from the 1st floor bathroom? Yes! How many people get to go thru their childhood home and re-live those memories in that fashion? That house was the gathering spot for all the family, and we all have such wonderful memories of our time spent there. I should also mention that we seem to get lucky when we visit Seattle-beautiful sunny skies, Mount Rainier, the Cascades and the Olympic Mountains out in all their glory. Then it was on to Edmonds and a nice evening spent w/Uncle Bob, Polly, Tracy, Scott and Hannah.
Monday proved to be a productive day for me. While in Morocco I had made contact w/a woman regarding her ecommerce business and the potential for the Adwal Coop women to do business with her. As luck would have it, she lives about 15 minutes from Uncle Bob. Called her Sunday and she agreed to come down to Edmonds and meet over coffee on Monday. Wahoo. So we met while Uncle Bob, Sandy, Debbie and Polly had lunch. She was terrific and loves the women’s work. I have a lot to talk about with the women when I get back to REK to see if we can make this happen. Yipee! Then it was on to Cousin Boyd and Karen’s house for dinner with them, Uncle Butch, Yvonne, Aly and Cousin Shannon, Scott, and their 4 kids-Alex, Jordan, Annie and Will. It was nice enough to sit out on the back deck for dinner-I forget how long the evenings are in Seattle, even this early in the year. What a delightful evening.
Tuesday was a busy day, with final preparations for the big event the next day. We helped put together memory tables-photos, mementos, articles, etc. to represent Aunt Geri’s life of varied interests.
Wednesday dawned with the realization that this was our formal good bye, our testimony to our love for Aunt Geri, and the realization that we all wanted, no needed, it to be perfect for her. And it was. God Bless.
We talked Cousin Arne’s daughter Lindsay to spend the night with us and spend Thursday with the girls. That included meeting with Shannon and Aunt Sandie for lunch before having to drop Debbie off at the airport. She needed to get home to be with Phil today (Friday) as he starts the last of his bladder cancer treatments-after 3 years-he will be called a survivor-we need to figure out a celebration for him when the treatments are done 2 weeks from today.
I’ve managed to squeeze in a little shopping for things I wanted or needed. A few new pairs of pants-seems I’ve dropped a size and it’s nice to have pants that fit (that look that teenage boys sport with their pants dropping down their behinds is even less attractive on 50-something women), a couple shirts, and some baking goods that are unavailable in Morocco (esp. choc chips, brown sugar and baking soda). Got it all in my bags-wahoo.
It’s like we’ve lived this week in a bubble of love and no one wants to break out of it. There has been no adjustment whatsoever for me in coming back here for a visit. I can see it’s going to be hard to be back alone in Morocco. Thank goodness for Skype. Being able to see one another as we talk is a lifesaver.
So I’m getting my thoughts down before Uncle Bob and Polly take me to the airport and I start my long journey back to REK.
More than anything, Family Matters.
We celebrated Aunt Geri’s life on an overcast day in Edmonds, on the top of the Public Library (perfect as she was a school librarian all her working life) in the beautiful Plaza Room with a view of Puget Sound and spring flowers (she was a Master Gardener) blooming in the patio outside. It was an SRO crowd. It was of course remarkably emotional, as Aunt Geri really touched our lives deeply. She didn’t live on the surface-she made you feel you were her whole world when you were with her. Oh God I miss her.
Uncle Bob, Polly and Tracy put together such a wonderful program and Scott and Tracy did the most amazing food. Everyone-family and friends-pitched in for the set up and tear down as we had to be out of the room soon after the program ended. We all then gathered waterfront for dinner and drinks and continued the tears and laughter. It’s been like that all week.
Sisters Debbie and Sandy arrived from California last Sunday about ½ hour before I did and met me in baggage claim. This, despite the fact that I apparently neglected to send them my itinerary, but they knew I was coming in from Frankfurt and there were only 2 options and they picked the right one. We made our way up to Edmonds via 2203 East Louisa Street, our childhood home. Cousin Tracy had seen that the house was for sale about a month ago and had sent us the weblink for the house to look at. We decided to drive by, and since it was Sunday, they were having an open house! Needless to say, we parked and did a walk through. First place checked-was the laundry shoot from the 2nd floor to the basement still there and could you get to it from the 1st floor bathroom? Yes! How many people get to go thru their childhood home and re-live those memories in that fashion? That house was the gathering spot for all the family, and we all have such wonderful memories of our time spent there. I should also mention that we seem to get lucky when we visit Seattle-beautiful sunny skies, Mount Rainier, the Cascades and the Olympic Mountains out in all their glory. Then it was on to Edmonds and a nice evening spent w/Uncle Bob, Polly, Tracy, Scott and Hannah.
Monday proved to be a productive day for me. While in Morocco I had made contact w/a woman regarding her ecommerce business and the potential for the Adwal Coop women to do business with her. As luck would have it, she lives about 15 minutes from Uncle Bob. Called her Sunday and she agreed to come down to Edmonds and meet over coffee on Monday. Wahoo. So we met while Uncle Bob, Sandy, Debbie and Polly had lunch. She was terrific and loves the women’s work. I have a lot to talk about with the women when I get back to REK to see if we can make this happen. Yipee! Then it was on to Cousin Boyd and Karen’s house for dinner with them, Uncle Butch, Yvonne, Aly and Cousin Shannon, Scott, and their 4 kids-Alex, Jordan, Annie and Will. It was nice enough to sit out on the back deck for dinner-I forget how long the evenings are in Seattle, even this early in the year. What a delightful evening.
Tuesday was a busy day, with final preparations for the big event the next day. We helped put together memory tables-photos, mementos, articles, etc. to represent Aunt Geri’s life of varied interests.
Wednesday dawned with the realization that this was our formal good bye, our testimony to our love for Aunt Geri, and the realization that we all wanted, no needed, it to be perfect for her. And it was. God Bless.
We talked Cousin Arne’s daughter Lindsay to spend the night with us and spend Thursday with the girls. That included meeting with Shannon and Aunt Sandie for lunch before having to drop Debbie off at the airport. She needed to get home to be with Phil today (Friday) as he starts the last of his bladder cancer treatments-after 3 years-he will be called a survivor-we need to figure out a celebration for him when the treatments are done 2 weeks from today.
I’ve managed to squeeze in a little shopping for things I wanted or needed. A few new pairs of pants-seems I’ve dropped a size and it’s nice to have pants that fit (that look that teenage boys sport with their pants dropping down their behinds is even less attractive on 50-something women), a couple shirts, and some baking goods that are unavailable in Morocco (esp. choc chips, brown sugar and baking soda). Got it all in my bags-wahoo.
It’s like we’ve lived this week in a bubble of love and no one wants to break out of it. There has been no adjustment whatsoever for me in coming back here for a visit. I can see it’s going to be hard to be back alone in Morocco. Thank goodness for Skype. Being able to see one another as we talk is a lifesaver.
So I’m getting my thoughts down before Uncle Bob and Polly take me to the airport and I start my long journey back to REK.
More than anything, Family Matters.
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Casablanca
What a difference a year makes. Last year this time I was on a Backroads trip in Turkey. Jane and I extended the trip and spent several days exploring Istanbul-a fabulous city w/amazing history. We splurged on a hotel-right on the Bosphorus-a former palace-in fact it’s called the Cirigan Palace Hotel. Price? Over $800/night. Fast forward. I’m feeling luxurious as I sit w/my feet up on my double bed in a hotel in Casablanca-WITH A TV (which I have on even tho it gets one French channel and Al Jazeera-I’m listening to music on the French channel-1st TV in 6 mos)-and a FULL bathroom, complete with towels, shampoo and conditioner. There’s wireless internet-IN MY ROOM! And a minibar! Price? Less than 650DH. OK, so with the exchange rate, it’s about 1/10th the price of the Cirigan Palace, but I feel like a princess anyway. Can you say HOT shower?
Feeling pretty lazy as I’ve had plenty of time to-get myself from Rabat to Casa-my flight to Seattle leaves out of Casa airport tonight. I’ve had a chance to wander Casablanca, and so far it doesn’t get my vote for favorite Moroccan city. By a long shot. Start w/frustration at train station trying to get a taxi. My hotel’s too far, yet too close-no one wants the fare. Instead of saying so, they tell me their meters are broke, they have to go pray, it’s time for lunch. Language is not the issue here. Hshuma. Guy in grand taxi comes over and offers to take me-ok-for what?50DH for a less than 10DH trip? Hshuma again. Then today at the Hassan II Mosque, no taxi wants to go to the Medina Nouvelle. Elesh? Manerfsh. Get someone to take the fare and he “hshuma’s” the other drivers. Welcome to Casa-not!
So in my wanderings, I’m looking for the charm of old Casablanca. It’s not readily apparent. Big, busy, traffic, crowded, dirty city. I do find charm in the olive souk and used hwaj souk of the New Medina, at the Central Market (I seem drawn to Central Markets in cities-great way to see people and how they live), and at the outdoor cafe where I eat all the fish (calamari, shrimp, sole) I want. Now I need to shower, pack and get myself to the airport. B’slama Casablanca.
Feeling pretty lazy as I’ve had plenty of time to-get myself from Rabat to Casa-my flight to Seattle leaves out of Casa airport tonight. I’ve had a chance to wander Casablanca, and so far it doesn’t get my vote for favorite Moroccan city. By a long shot. Start w/frustration at train station trying to get a taxi. My hotel’s too far, yet too close-no one wants the fare. Instead of saying so, they tell me their meters are broke, they have to go pray, it’s time for lunch. Language is not the issue here. Hshuma. Guy in grand taxi comes over and offers to take me-ok-for what?50DH for a less than 10DH trip? Hshuma again. Then today at the Hassan II Mosque, no taxi wants to go to the Medina Nouvelle. Elesh? Manerfsh. Get someone to take the fare and he “hshuma’s” the other drivers. Welcome to Casa-not!
So in my wanderings, I’m looking for the charm of old Casablanca. It’s not readily apparent. Big, busy, traffic, crowded, dirty city. I do find charm in the olive souk and used hwaj souk of the New Medina, at the Central Market (I seem drawn to Central Markets in cities-great way to see people and how they live), and at the outdoor cafe where I eat all the fish (calamari, shrimp, sole) I want. Now I need to shower, pack and get myself to the airport. B’slama Casablanca.
Friday, April 17, 2009
Transit
The strike is still on and Morocco is a mess. Got a ride on Sunday w/strangers to Sefrou, as not even the nukls were running. Sarah and Nathan were coming from his site to REK and thumbed a ride w/3 guys from Fes who were checking out potential ecotourism sites (ecotourism is the next big buzz word around here). They come to REK, were introduced to the REK Tourism Assn President and agreed to go back to Fes via Sefrou and take Sarah and I with them. They ask if it’s ok to go the long way around the “sdd”-that’s the dam and reservoir north of REK. Of course-they can take us any way they want. We stop multiple times for them to take photos of the countryside and we get out and gather large clusters of the incredible wildflowers to bring to Jess’s house. They won’t take a dime (or dirham for that matter) for the ride-hshuma. Shukran bzzaf.
So we’ve made it to Jess’s for Easter-Hamdullah! Several others come over for the feast-chicken tangines and sangria in the sunshine on the roof. Get a photo of everyone eating a Peeps that Cindy sent. Kinda like Thanksgiving, we go for a long walk to try to digest the enormous meal we’ve consumed. Make our way up to the “cascade”-waterfall north of Sefrou. Lots of families out walking to it as well. Nice. Good Easter.
Meanwhile, Sarah’s been sweating the continuation of the transit strike, and decides to postpone the Womens Wellness Workshop to next week. I’m bummed as that means I can’t participate, but it’s a good decision. It’s a Peace Corps project, and we don’t want to be in the position of asking young women from the bled to take illegal transit just to get to a Wellness Workshop. We meet w/Hayat who has set up host families for the 30 bnat (girls) to stay with, and have to determine how to salvage what has already been purchased.Waxa.
Monday is just a good work day-Jess makes it to Fes for the day and I get a lot of computer work done for the Coop at her house. Tuesday comes w/a continuation of the strike. I want to be certain I can get to Rabat to meet w/PC on Wed and dentist on Thurs. Decide to start the journey. Achmed (more on him later) shows me a shortcut out of the medina to the bus stand. Buses are the only things running to Fes. Achmed knows how to get around the lengthy queue waiting to buy a ticket and for 20DH (usually only 7DH) I get on the next bus and have the front seat (thanks Achmed). Get to Fes and petit taxis are running, but all off the meter. Finally get one to agree to take me to the lagar (train stn) for 20DH (should have been less than 10DH). Get on the train to Rabat-3 hr ride-trains and buses are running their regular schedules. The train is full to the brim.
OK, so about this transit strike. Got an email from PC office-info was dated last week, but was a good explanation of what is being protested. A bill in the parliament proposed new penalties for transit drivers involved in accidents. The original fines were 4000DH and prison. Note that the avg driver makes 30-50DH per day. Many of the unions initiated the strike. There’s been isolated violence associated with the strike, mostly supporters throwing stones at drivers still working. I’ve got to say that people are really in support of the drivers. They are the lifeline of communities-we’re SOOO dependent on them-and while penalties if they’re drunk, hit someone, etc. may be just, the proposed law goes way beyond what appears reasonable. Nshufu (We’ll see).
So Jess, Achmed and Kaoutar make an unlikely but terrific friendship. Achmed lives below Jess in the old Sefrou medina. Who knows how old he is-his kids are still teenagers, but I’d put him well into his 50’s. Moroccan, speaks no English, divorced, likes his wine, scruffy like no tomorrow, and the sweetest man alive! He and Jess (tall blonde Brit) are fast friends but just friends. He knows the ins and outs of Sefrou and how to get anything and everything done using informal channels. The first time I met him at Jess’s I thought “who the heck is this weird old guy?” Monday I was worried that he hadn’t shown up for soup and wine! He of course was there first thing in the morning, with hasha and milowi for breakfast and making coffee as we woke up. Kaoutar also lives below Jess, is about 12 years old, is darling, has never gone to school, and rounds out the threesome w/Jess and Achmed. Jess wants them to all take Arabic reading and writing class together. Inshallah. Unlikely friendships sometimes make the best friendships.
So I’m keeping a list of the things I want to get while I’m briefly in the states. Nothing urgent and nothing I couldn’t live without. On the list: measuring spoons, battery for my alarm, light clothing for summer, spice mixes, mixes that only require eggs and oil, lens cap for my camera (lost it and currently using a sock-which by the way works very well).Safi.
Update-it’s now Thursday and the strike officially ended today. Hard to tell the difference here in Rabat where I’ve been for 3 days. Big cities were the least affected, as the petit taxis and buses were not part of the strike. Saw the dentist and got my crown re-cemented, but another crown chipped. (what is it with teeth in Morocco?) Since I have to wait for PC approval via Wash DC to get crown replaced, I’ll likely be coming back to the dentist when I return from the US. That could work well and save PC and I both some money and time by not travelling to REK and back. There’s a craft fair in Casablanca (Dar Beida-get it-White House?) the week I return. If things work out, I’ll then just stay in Rabat to get the crown completed and go on to the craft fair w/Taeawniya women in Casa. Only problem is that I packed light for a 2 week trip. Oh well.
Got a chance to get by the PC office while I’m here in Rabat-very productive drop in meetings. I also met a number of PCVs who are in town for COS-that’s Close of Service. The Environment and Health sectors finish up their 2 years the end of May, so they have end of service meetings, physicals, etc. Their replacements finish training and get their site assignments tomorrow.
Meanwhile, I’ve been working on the Coop brochure, catalog/website, and bios of the women. It appears that the Regional Website out of the Sefrou Artisana is ready to move forward and I need to get this content approved by the women and translated. In addition, I’ve gone by the carpet souk and Artisana here in Rabat to do a little casual competitive research. It’s interesting to note that the Regional zrbya of the Beni Ouarain design are not available here in Rabat. This is a traditional design that Adwal has been encouraged to produce. It appears to demand higher than usual prices and also appears to be a good opportunity should the women choose to pursue it.
Well, it’s on to Casablanca in the morning-check it out, get a little more computer work and it’s off to the states on Saturday. Hamdullah.
So we’ve made it to Jess’s for Easter-Hamdullah! Several others come over for the feast-chicken tangines and sangria in the sunshine on the roof. Get a photo of everyone eating a Peeps that Cindy sent. Kinda like Thanksgiving, we go for a long walk to try to digest the enormous meal we’ve consumed. Make our way up to the “cascade”-waterfall north of Sefrou. Lots of families out walking to it as well. Nice. Good Easter.
Meanwhile, Sarah’s been sweating the continuation of the transit strike, and decides to postpone the Womens Wellness Workshop to next week. I’m bummed as that means I can’t participate, but it’s a good decision. It’s a Peace Corps project, and we don’t want to be in the position of asking young women from the bled to take illegal transit just to get to a Wellness Workshop. We meet w/Hayat who has set up host families for the 30 bnat (girls) to stay with, and have to determine how to salvage what has already been purchased.Waxa.
Monday is just a good work day-Jess makes it to Fes for the day and I get a lot of computer work done for the Coop at her house. Tuesday comes w/a continuation of the strike. I want to be certain I can get to Rabat to meet w/PC on Wed and dentist on Thurs. Decide to start the journey. Achmed (more on him later) shows me a shortcut out of the medina to the bus stand. Buses are the only things running to Fes. Achmed knows how to get around the lengthy queue waiting to buy a ticket and for 20DH (usually only 7DH) I get on the next bus and have the front seat (thanks Achmed). Get to Fes and petit taxis are running, but all off the meter. Finally get one to agree to take me to the lagar (train stn) for 20DH (should have been less than 10DH). Get on the train to Rabat-3 hr ride-trains and buses are running their regular schedules. The train is full to the brim.
OK, so about this transit strike. Got an email from PC office-info was dated last week, but was a good explanation of what is being protested. A bill in the parliament proposed new penalties for transit drivers involved in accidents. The original fines were 4000DH and prison. Note that the avg driver makes 30-50DH per day. Many of the unions initiated the strike. There’s been isolated violence associated with the strike, mostly supporters throwing stones at drivers still working. I’ve got to say that people are really in support of the drivers. They are the lifeline of communities-we’re SOOO dependent on them-and while penalties if they’re drunk, hit someone, etc. may be just, the proposed law goes way beyond what appears reasonable. Nshufu (We’ll see).
So Jess, Achmed and Kaoutar make an unlikely but terrific friendship. Achmed lives below Jess in the old Sefrou medina. Who knows how old he is-his kids are still teenagers, but I’d put him well into his 50’s. Moroccan, speaks no English, divorced, likes his wine, scruffy like no tomorrow, and the sweetest man alive! He and Jess (tall blonde Brit) are fast friends but just friends. He knows the ins and outs of Sefrou and how to get anything and everything done using informal channels. The first time I met him at Jess’s I thought “who the heck is this weird old guy?” Monday I was worried that he hadn’t shown up for soup and wine! He of course was there first thing in the morning, with hasha and milowi for breakfast and making coffee as we woke up. Kaoutar also lives below Jess, is about 12 years old, is darling, has never gone to school, and rounds out the threesome w/Jess and Achmed. Jess wants them to all take Arabic reading and writing class together. Inshallah. Unlikely friendships sometimes make the best friendships.
So I’m keeping a list of the things I want to get while I’m briefly in the states. Nothing urgent and nothing I couldn’t live without. On the list: measuring spoons, battery for my alarm, light clothing for summer, spice mixes, mixes that only require eggs and oil, lens cap for my camera (lost it and currently using a sock-which by the way works very well).Safi.
Update-it’s now Thursday and the strike officially ended today. Hard to tell the difference here in Rabat where I’ve been for 3 days. Big cities were the least affected, as the petit taxis and buses were not part of the strike. Saw the dentist and got my crown re-cemented, but another crown chipped. (what is it with teeth in Morocco?) Since I have to wait for PC approval via Wash DC to get crown replaced, I’ll likely be coming back to the dentist when I return from the US. That could work well and save PC and I both some money and time by not travelling to REK and back. There’s a craft fair in Casablanca (Dar Beida-get it-White House?) the week I return. If things work out, I’ll then just stay in Rabat to get the crown completed and go on to the craft fair w/Taeawniya women in Casa. Only problem is that I packed light for a 2 week trip. Oh well.
Got a chance to get by the PC office while I’m here in Rabat-very productive drop in meetings. I also met a number of PCVs who are in town for COS-that’s Close of Service. The Environment and Health sectors finish up their 2 years the end of May, so they have end of service meetings, physicals, etc. Their replacements finish training and get their site assignments tomorrow.
Meanwhile, I’ve been working on the Coop brochure, catalog/website, and bios of the women. It appears that the Regional Website out of the Sefrou Artisana is ready to move forward and I need to get this content approved by the women and translated. In addition, I’ve gone by the carpet souk and Artisana here in Rabat to do a little casual competitive research. It’s interesting to note that the Regional zrbya of the Beni Ouarain design are not available here in Rabat. This is a traditional design that Adwal has been encouraged to produce. It appears to demand higher than usual prices and also appears to be a good opportunity should the women choose to pursue it.
Well, it’s on to Casablanca in the morning-check it out, get a little more computer work and it’s off to the states on Saturday. Hamdullah.
Friday, April 10, 2009
Flexibility
You learn the Gumby Game in Morocco. Go with the flow. Don’t sweat the small stuff. Swiya b swiya.
So I need to be in Sefrou by 4pm yesterday for the Women’s Wellness Workshop, yak? However, Zahra from Coop wants to go to see Drs. Mimi and Asma to give them certificates of appreciation from Adwal for their work at the cancer screening. Will I go to take photos? Sure, when? She wants to leave at 8am. Geez. OK. But Aicha doesn’t want to travel to Sefrou alone later in the day, so she’ll come with us in the morning.
We meet at the nuqls at 8. No nuqls. Seems the transit strike is not over as had been rumored. Crap. However, there is a nuql going to El Menzel, and hopefully we can find a tomobil we can pay to get to Sefrou. OK, yalla. Nuql stops at the intersection of the road to Fes and El Menzel and we scamper out, grab our stuff, cuz there’ a car going to Sefrou. Can’t get to it fast enough-people appear out of the fields and fill the car. Bummer-back on the nuql and we’ve lost our seats. Get to El Menzel, and sure enough, there’s a guy w/a car and room for the 3 of us to go to Sefrou. Wahoo. So on the way to Sefrou, I’m trying to pick up messages from Sarah (workshop coordinator), but since it’s hilly, rizzo (network reception) is bad. Finally get message that due to strike, so many workshop participants can’t get out of their sites, that we’re postponing the workshop. Crap. We’re just about at Sefrou, and have paid premium price for the ride (and I’m paying for Aicha’s transport). Ask the driver if he’s returning to Hermoumu. Yes. When? He’ll give us ½ hour to do business, then he’s going back. OK, yalla. Talk about trust-Aicha and I leave our bags in his car-brought stuff for the weekend and don’t want to drag it on our backs all over Sefrou-sure hope we see the stuff again. We see Dr. Mimi, but Dr. Asma isn’t in town, and of course my camera is in the bag I left w/the driver, so I can’t take photo and now I’m really worried that I may never see my stuff again. We have another meeting that Aicha needs on behalf of her father to try to move his 3x/week dialysis from Fes to Sefrou. Time’s up, but Zahra needs to go to the Artisana to see our delegate and get some business done. Do I leave her and get certain transport or accompany her to the Artisana? She doesn’t need me there and I want to be certain I get Aicha back home. Get the driver to agree to come back to Sefrou later-he’ll bring Zahra and Sarah (who is scrambling to change the arrangements for us to do the workshop Monday-Thursday instead) back to REK in the afternoon. Hamdullah. And he follows thru. Ham-du-li-lah..
So about this transit strike-still don’t have the full picture (no surprise). It’s the grand taxi and nuql drivers protesting about gov’t regulations-they’re subsidized by gov’t since they are the transportation lifeline across the country. None of them are travelling major roads or to large towns as they fear reprisals from other drivers. However, nuql drivers who want to work are still driving between small duars. I see an occasional grand taxi in town-probably a driver going between small duars. Buses are running. However, the strike pretty much paralyses everything. School is messed up since teachers can’t get to school (many live quite a way from their schools and rely on transport), businesses can’t operate normally, etc. This has been going on for three days. What a mess. Clusters of people sitting on their haunches on the side of the road hoping for room on anything travelling the direction they want to go, to no avail-every vehicle is full to the brim.
So I’m back in site. Sarah and Nathan are here. Cooked up veggie stirfry and broke open the bottle of rum I brought back from Fes and tried to make Moroccan Mojitos (that fresh mint for tea is readily available for mojitos). They’re pretty swiya, but we drink them anyway-need to get a recipe before I do that again. Today’s an unexpected free day, we’ve got drizzly fog, so we’re just lounging around, big breakfast, making peanut butter cookies and playing Rummicube, listening to tunes. Hamdullah.
Now I need to pull together my packing to leave on Sunday for two weeks. Easter at my friend Jess’s in Sefrou on Sunday, stay for the Women’s Workshop until Wednesday when I go to Rabat for a dentist appt and go by the PC office, then one day in Casablanca until I catch my flight to Seattle a week from tomorrow.
So I need to be in Sefrou by 4pm yesterday for the Women’s Wellness Workshop, yak? However, Zahra from Coop wants to go to see Drs. Mimi and Asma to give them certificates of appreciation from Adwal for their work at the cancer screening. Will I go to take photos? Sure, when? She wants to leave at 8am. Geez. OK. But Aicha doesn’t want to travel to Sefrou alone later in the day, so she’ll come with us in the morning.
We meet at the nuqls at 8. No nuqls. Seems the transit strike is not over as had been rumored. Crap. However, there is a nuql going to El Menzel, and hopefully we can find a tomobil we can pay to get to Sefrou. OK, yalla. Nuql stops at the intersection of the road to Fes and El Menzel and we scamper out, grab our stuff, cuz there’ a car going to Sefrou. Can’t get to it fast enough-people appear out of the fields and fill the car. Bummer-back on the nuql and we’ve lost our seats. Get to El Menzel, and sure enough, there’s a guy w/a car and room for the 3 of us to go to Sefrou. Wahoo. So on the way to Sefrou, I’m trying to pick up messages from Sarah (workshop coordinator), but since it’s hilly, rizzo (network reception) is bad. Finally get message that due to strike, so many workshop participants can’t get out of their sites, that we’re postponing the workshop. Crap. We’re just about at Sefrou, and have paid premium price for the ride (and I’m paying for Aicha’s transport). Ask the driver if he’s returning to Hermoumu. Yes. When? He’ll give us ½ hour to do business, then he’s going back. OK, yalla. Talk about trust-Aicha and I leave our bags in his car-brought stuff for the weekend and don’t want to drag it on our backs all over Sefrou-sure hope we see the stuff again. We see Dr. Mimi, but Dr. Asma isn’t in town, and of course my camera is in the bag I left w/the driver, so I can’t take photo and now I’m really worried that I may never see my stuff again. We have another meeting that Aicha needs on behalf of her father to try to move his 3x/week dialysis from Fes to Sefrou. Time’s up, but Zahra needs to go to the Artisana to see our delegate and get some business done. Do I leave her and get certain transport or accompany her to the Artisana? She doesn’t need me there and I want to be certain I get Aicha back home. Get the driver to agree to come back to Sefrou later-he’ll bring Zahra and Sarah (who is scrambling to change the arrangements for us to do the workshop Monday-Thursday instead) back to REK in the afternoon. Hamdullah. And he follows thru. Ham-du-li-lah..
So about this transit strike-still don’t have the full picture (no surprise). It’s the grand taxi and nuql drivers protesting about gov’t regulations-they’re subsidized by gov’t since they are the transportation lifeline across the country. None of them are travelling major roads or to large towns as they fear reprisals from other drivers. However, nuql drivers who want to work are still driving between small duars. I see an occasional grand taxi in town-probably a driver going between small duars. Buses are running. However, the strike pretty much paralyses everything. School is messed up since teachers can’t get to school (many live quite a way from their schools and rely on transport), businesses can’t operate normally, etc. This has been going on for three days. What a mess. Clusters of people sitting on their haunches on the side of the road hoping for room on anything travelling the direction they want to go, to no avail-every vehicle is full to the brim.
So I’m back in site. Sarah and Nathan are here. Cooked up veggie stirfry and broke open the bottle of rum I brought back from Fes and tried to make Moroccan Mojitos (that fresh mint for tea is readily available for mojitos). They’re pretty swiya, but we drink them anyway-need to get a recipe before I do that again. Today’s an unexpected free day, we’ve got drizzly fog, so we’re just lounging around, big breakfast, making peanut butter cookies and playing Rummicube, listening to tunes. Hamdullah.
Now I need to pull together my packing to leave on Sunday for two weeks. Easter at my friend Jess’s in Sefrou on Sunday, stay for the Women’s Workshop until Wednesday when I go to Rabat for a dentist appt and go by the PC office, then one day in Casablanca until I catch my flight to Seattle a week from tomorrow.
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Msgrul
Pronounced mshgggrul, aka: busy. Lot’s going on. Let’s see-I’ll start w/follow up to last week’s Cancer Screening Day....
I was concerned that the women were told to go to Sefrou to get the results of their exams. Not practical, and figured I'd go see Dr. Faisal at the sbitar here in REK when I got back from Fes, to convince him to get the results sent here. No worries. Fatima and Zahra are already on it. They went to Sefrou last Friday on their own initiative to get copies of the results and bring them back here. Mind you, they are the Pres and VP of the Coop I dragged into this. Hamdulah.
We meet w/Dr. Faisal yesterday and he reviews all the reports. Finds 6 w/evidence of cancer. Finds 10 who need to go to Fes for further testing. The rest are clean. He gives the reports to Fatima to give them to the women. Huh? Any MD in the US would scream for HIPPA and patient confidentiality. Not here. These women don’t have contact info-no mailbox, no phone. How to get the results out to them? Same way they were told to come to the screening. Use word of mouth to get the women to come and get their reports from Fatima. Miriam (lawyer friend) and I convince Fatima to tell the 16 women w/issues to take their reports and talk to Dr. Faisal. Fatima should not be put in the position of telling the women they have an issue with their results. Interesting process, yak? So this morning (Tues), sure enough, there’s a steady stream of women coming by the Coop workshop to get their results. Fatima is all organized to give them their reports. In addition, she and Zahra have made these really nice thank you certificates for the MDs and women who volunteered their time last week. Nice touch. Again, this is from women who I dragged into this whole thing-going above and beyond. That’s why I feel fortunate to be working with them.
I brought in the Logo banner for the Coop-they liked it-need to hang it up in the workshop.
I was also surprised to see my friend Aicha come by the Coop. Seems she’s been let go from her job in the computer lab at the Dar Chebab. Doesn’t understand why she was let go, and now Fatima’s (Coop Fatima) sister is working there. Note that Fatima is member of the Assn that is over the computer lab. Hmmmm. Nevertheless, Aicha wants to work, so has come by the Coop to talk to Fatima (same one) about learning to weave-and Fatima talks her into it! (So let’s see-Aicha let go by Fatima’s Assn so her own sister can work there, but convinces the former employee to come and be trained by Coop-and Coop makes money by training apprentices. Smells fishy, but who am I to judge?).
I’m at least glad for 2 reasons-I’ll get to see Aicha daily at the Coop, and since she isn’t working right now, I’ve invited her to participate in the Women’s Wellness Workshop this weekend in Sefrou. (I wanted to invite her to participate all along, but didn’t as I knew she worked). The workshop will include yoga, nutrition and cooking classes, stress programs, women’s health discussions, art, etc. The women invited from our towns (about 30 total) will stay w/host families Thursday thru Sunday, all for free. The intent is for the participants to then take what they learn back to their communities and share it with women there. Aicha is coming. Hamdullah.
I’m particularly glad that Aicha can come, as her job loss is not the only disappointing news she’s received lately. She and the man who teaches the computer classes at the Dar Chebab have been dating (as much as you can in this culture). They want to marry. Her mom supports them, but her dad says “no”-the guy doesn’t make enough money. End of story. Wow. Breaks my heart.
Meanwhile, my work continues on Coop marketing-brochure, business card and interviewing each of the members to have profiles for the Regional website when it goes "live" thru the Artisana in Sefrou. I'm also getting info together for my meeting in Mukilteo w/the women with the ecommerce opportunity when I go to the states in 2 weeks.
Signing off now to get back to these projects....
I was concerned that the women were told to go to Sefrou to get the results of their exams. Not practical, and figured I'd go see Dr. Faisal at the sbitar here in REK when I got back from Fes, to convince him to get the results sent here. No worries. Fatima and Zahra are already on it. They went to Sefrou last Friday on their own initiative to get copies of the results and bring them back here. Mind you, they are the Pres and VP of the Coop I dragged into this. Hamdulah.
We meet w/Dr. Faisal yesterday and he reviews all the reports. Finds 6 w/evidence of cancer. Finds 10 who need to go to Fes for further testing. The rest are clean. He gives the reports to Fatima to give them to the women. Huh? Any MD in the US would scream for HIPPA and patient confidentiality. Not here. These women don’t have contact info-no mailbox, no phone. How to get the results out to them? Same way they were told to come to the screening. Use word of mouth to get the women to come and get their reports from Fatima. Miriam (lawyer friend) and I convince Fatima to tell the 16 women w/issues to take their reports and talk to Dr. Faisal. Fatima should not be put in the position of telling the women they have an issue with their results. Interesting process, yak? So this morning (Tues), sure enough, there’s a steady stream of women coming by the Coop workshop to get their results. Fatima is all organized to give them their reports. In addition, she and Zahra have made these really nice thank you certificates for the MDs and women who volunteered their time last week. Nice touch. Again, this is from women who I dragged into this whole thing-going above and beyond. That’s why I feel fortunate to be working with them.
I brought in the Logo banner for the Coop-they liked it-need to hang it up in the workshop.
I was also surprised to see my friend Aicha come by the Coop. Seems she’s been let go from her job in the computer lab at the Dar Chebab. Doesn’t understand why she was let go, and now Fatima’s (Coop Fatima) sister is working there. Note that Fatima is member of the Assn that is over the computer lab. Hmmmm. Nevertheless, Aicha wants to work, so has come by the Coop to talk to Fatima (same one) about learning to weave-and Fatima talks her into it! (So let’s see-Aicha let go by Fatima’s Assn so her own sister can work there, but convinces the former employee to come and be trained by Coop-and Coop makes money by training apprentices. Smells fishy, but who am I to judge?).
I’m at least glad for 2 reasons-I’ll get to see Aicha daily at the Coop, and since she isn’t working right now, I’ve invited her to participate in the Women’s Wellness Workshop this weekend in Sefrou. (I wanted to invite her to participate all along, but didn’t as I knew she worked). The workshop will include yoga, nutrition and cooking classes, stress programs, women’s health discussions, art, etc. The women invited from our towns (about 30 total) will stay w/host families Thursday thru Sunday, all for free. The intent is for the participants to then take what they learn back to their communities and share it with women there. Aicha is coming. Hamdullah.
I’m particularly glad that Aicha can come, as her job loss is not the only disappointing news she’s received lately. She and the man who teaches the computer classes at the Dar Chebab have been dating (as much as you can in this culture). They want to marry. Her mom supports them, but her dad says “no”-the guy doesn’t make enough money. End of story. Wow. Breaks my heart.
Meanwhile, my work continues on Coop marketing-brochure, business card and interviewing each of the members to have profiles for the Regional website when it goes "live" thru the Artisana in Sefrou. I'm also getting info together for my meeting in Mukilteo w/the women with the ecommerce opportunity when I go to the states in 2 weeks.
Signing off now to get back to these projects....
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Muxyem f Fes
Greetings from Spring Camp in Fes!
Every year during school spring break, Youth Development Volunteers work with the Morocco Youth Ministry at week-long English camps. The YD volunteers coordinate volunteers from other sectors to be counselors and we teach English classes, run clubs, sports and afternoon and evening activities with the kids. The kids range in age from around 12 to 16. The Fes camp has 70 kids and there are 10 PCV counselors.
The kids are split up for English class based on a test they had on Sunday when they arrived. I’ve been helping out in the lowest level class, as that is the level of the kids I teach in the Dar Chebab in Ribat El Kheir. Interesting how many show up every morning w/o any paper or writing instrument. No interest in being there. The clubs meet every afternoon and the kids chose the club they attend from Business, Art, Gender and Development, Leadership and Theater. I’ve been helping out with the Business Club. They created their own companies and we had a laptop company, Delicious Jam (yum yum), Adolescent Clothing, Motorcycles and natural herb medicine companies. Yesterday was our final meeting and we did a stock market simulation (kinda sorta) of their companies.
It’s such a study in contrasts. The kids here are fairly well off, pretty typical teenagers, much more sophisticated than the kids we have in our communities in our small villages. These kids-boys and girls both-change clothes 3-4 times a day. Boys use more hair products than the girls. One boy has been hanging w/counselors since he goes to school in Spain and for the week he’s home on break his parents sent him to this camp. Mesquin.
Wed afternoon was an excursion to the old Fes medina. Figured I’d go to get background info on some of the sights/historical buildings and see some new sights. Then I’m thinking “darn” it will be in Arabic. No worries. Didn’t get any info at all. Walked to the medina (1 hr), all around the medina (2 hrs), in and out of great mosques, etc., but no info at all for the kids. Interesting outing-basically a long walk. At least I found out about a new door at the south end of the medina that will come in handy in the future when I need to get to my taxi stand from there.
As is typical of camps, there are camp songs-many in Arabic, some in English. I love the one that goes: “I am happy to see you and to say (snap fingers twice)” Remind you of anything? Moroccan version of “If you’re happy and you know it clap your hands (clap twice)."
Last night several of us ditched dinner w/the campers for sushi. Zen. Delicious. But no beer or sake (waxa). Expensive by Peace Corps budget standards, but the least I’ve ever spent on sushi-equivalent to about $17 total. Worth every durham. Tonight is the last night of camp and the Entertainment Extravaganza. The kids are remarkably willing to get up in front of one another and perform, so it promises to be quite a show. They have all afternoon to practice, so we get the afternoon off.
I’m also taking care of a little Coop business while I’m here. Cynthia showed me the printer she’s been using here in Fes for her Coop. I want to get competitive pricing for when we are ready to print brochures and business cards. (I’m working on the brochures-plan is to do the first ones then train the women on Publisher, then bring them to the printer so they are doing it all themselves.) Went by the printer and they showed us the banners and signs that they can make. Since we’ve finalized our Coop logo, I decided to surprise the women when I return w/a banner w/the new logo. It looks fabulous. Can’t wait to show it to them!
Language commentary-being around 9 other PCV camp counselors all week-the ones who have been here almost 2 years have great Arabic. Even those who I trained with are doing very well. I’m just catching on slower, but have to be patient w/my own progress.
Made a trip to Marjane (super grocery) today to pick up the stuff that I can’t get in my town (incl. sneaking in a couple bottles of wine past the kids). Manage to spend 560DH-on simple things like a couple frames, a cotton jersey skirt, flipflops, washcloths, etc. Kinda like Costco-seems like you can’t get out of the place under a minimum purchase amt.
I’m off to Sefrou in the morning for a meeting on the Woman’s Wellness Workshop that a couple Environ PCVs have coordinated. The workshop is 3 days next weekend (Thurs-Sun) in Sefrou. I’m going to help out. Should be fun.
Every year during school spring break, Youth Development Volunteers work with the Morocco Youth Ministry at week-long English camps. The YD volunteers coordinate volunteers from other sectors to be counselors and we teach English classes, run clubs, sports and afternoon and evening activities with the kids. The kids range in age from around 12 to 16. The Fes camp has 70 kids and there are 10 PCV counselors.
The kids are split up for English class based on a test they had on Sunday when they arrived. I’ve been helping out in the lowest level class, as that is the level of the kids I teach in the Dar Chebab in Ribat El Kheir. Interesting how many show up every morning w/o any paper or writing instrument. No interest in being there. The clubs meet every afternoon and the kids chose the club they attend from Business, Art, Gender and Development, Leadership and Theater. I’ve been helping out with the Business Club. They created their own companies and we had a laptop company, Delicious Jam (yum yum), Adolescent Clothing, Motorcycles and natural herb medicine companies. Yesterday was our final meeting and we did a stock market simulation (kinda sorta) of their companies.
It’s such a study in contrasts. The kids here are fairly well off, pretty typical teenagers, much more sophisticated than the kids we have in our communities in our small villages. These kids-boys and girls both-change clothes 3-4 times a day. Boys use more hair products than the girls. One boy has been hanging w/counselors since he goes to school in Spain and for the week he’s home on break his parents sent him to this camp. Mesquin.
Wed afternoon was an excursion to the old Fes medina. Figured I’d go to get background info on some of the sights/historical buildings and see some new sights. Then I’m thinking “darn” it will be in Arabic. No worries. Didn’t get any info at all. Walked to the medina (1 hr), all around the medina (2 hrs), in and out of great mosques, etc., but no info at all for the kids. Interesting outing-basically a long walk. At least I found out about a new door at the south end of the medina that will come in handy in the future when I need to get to my taxi stand from there.
As is typical of camps, there are camp songs-many in Arabic, some in English. I love the one that goes: “I am happy to see you and to say (snap fingers twice)” Remind you of anything? Moroccan version of “If you’re happy and you know it clap your hands (clap twice)."
Last night several of us ditched dinner w/the campers for sushi. Zen. Delicious. But no beer or sake (waxa). Expensive by Peace Corps budget standards, but the least I’ve ever spent on sushi-equivalent to about $17 total. Worth every durham. Tonight is the last night of camp and the Entertainment Extravaganza. The kids are remarkably willing to get up in front of one another and perform, so it promises to be quite a show. They have all afternoon to practice, so we get the afternoon off.
I’m also taking care of a little Coop business while I’m here. Cynthia showed me the printer she’s been using here in Fes for her Coop. I want to get competitive pricing for when we are ready to print brochures and business cards. (I’m working on the brochures-plan is to do the first ones then train the women on Publisher, then bring them to the printer so they are doing it all themselves.) Went by the printer and they showed us the banners and signs that they can make. Since we’ve finalized our Coop logo, I decided to surprise the women when I return w/a banner w/the new logo. It looks fabulous. Can’t wait to show it to them!
Language commentary-being around 9 other PCV camp counselors all week-the ones who have been here almost 2 years have great Arabic. Even those who I trained with are doing very well. I’m just catching on slower, but have to be patient w/my own progress.
Made a trip to Marjane (super grocery) today to pick up the stuff that I can’t get in my town (incl. sneaking in a couple bottles of wine past the kids). Manage to spend 560DH-on simple things like a couple frames, a cotton jersey skirt, flipflops, washcloths, etc. Kinda like Costco-seems like you can’t get out of the place under a minimum purchase amt.
I’m off to Sefrou in the morning for a meeting on the Woman’s Wellness Workshop that a couple Environ PCVs have coordinated. The workshop is 3 days next weekend (Thurs-Sun) in Sefrou. I’m going to help out. Should be fun.
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