The meeting in Casablanca was interesting. Yes, it was conducted in French, but they had an interpreter in a booth in the back and those of us non-French-speaking attendees had headphones to understand what was going on. It was a good opportunity for networking. Dr. Asmaa did show up, Hamdullah, and met w/the organizers again the next morning, so hopefully she’s on board w/working on this initiative. I also made contact w/a woman who is President of a Women’s Business Association in Rabat. I spoke w/her briefly about the possibility of working with her organization to partner them w/women in our Artisan Cooperatives and Associations to mentor them beyond when Peace Corps is gone. We’ll stay in contact, and Inshallah something will materialize.
Then it was off to Fes on Wednesday to meet up w/David-Director of the American Language Center, and Jess. He treated us to a lovely lunch, over which we discussed the proposal to hold the Ministry/Peace Corps “Regional Training In Sustainable Marketing” program. (Note the change in program name-tweaked things around a bit after soliciting feedback from PC staff in Rabat on draft grant proposal). Anyway, Hamdullah, David has agreed that we can hold the event at the Language Center. Better than that, he offered up some additional ideas to add to the event, ie; Artisanal Product Competition, bringing in prominent Fessians as judges, to help us attract our target audience. He’s being very generous and we’re going to make certain this program works for ALL of us-artisans and ALC included. Jess and I walked the properties to think thru layout of the exhibits and workshops, and went across the street to the private school (not assoc. w/ALC) to see if they’d let us use their space for the artisans to sleep. So far that’s a “la” (no), but we’ll try again next week.
Friday was another big day, or maybe just a very busy one. Got up to be in Sefrou to meet early w/5 other PCVs for a bunch of meetings I had set up for them. Three of them had unusual difficulties getting transit and 2 of them didn’t get to Sefrou until 3:30 (starting from their sites around 7am). Anyway, we were fortunate that the Health Delegate was in town, and had a chance to talk with him and Dr. Mimi. The Health PCVs’ counterparts have not been very supportive of their efforts, and they wanted to talk w/the ones in Sefrou to see if they could help. They gave us a copy of the report from the cancer screening in Ribat El Kheir, and told the PCVs to go direct to their Delegates to get what they need.
Then we were treated to an unbelievable lunch at Hyat’s. I had asked if we could all come and have lunch, but insisted in advance that we paid her for it. She really outdid herself. Pasta and veggie salad to start, followed by couscous, followed by homemade pastilla. First time I’ve had it homemade. It’s a very traditional Moroccan food-filo dough filled with chicken (traditionally pigeon), nuts, then topped w/powdered sugar and cinnamon. Fabulous. Hyat is also a wonderful resource, has been a friend to Peace Corps over the years, and I wanted the others to have a chance to meet her.
Unfortunately we had to leave sooner than any of us wanted to (given the collective food coma we were experiencing), but we had a meeting scheduled w/Amina Yabis. She’s another terrific resource who I’ve mentioned before. She’s a savvy businesswoman, artisan, politician, etc. She’s also been willing to work with PCVs to facilitate workshops w/women who want to start businesses, associations, etc. The PCVs who wanted to get her help w/their communities each had a chance to talk with her, as she and her husband were working on packaging her products for their trip to the Santa Fe International Craft Festival that they leave for next week.
Then it was off to catch a taxi. Oops, too late, no taxis going to Ribat El Kheir (unless we pay 2x fare for taxi to return to Sefrou). Nope. We’ll try a transit. Oops. None to REK. El Menzel? Ymkn. Oops, nope, no more running. Hop in a guy’s van and he takes us to the bus stop where the Casablanca bus comes thru at 8pm and we can get to REK on it. While waiting, a transit to El Menzel shows up. We load-gets us about 40km closer to home. Wait for transit in El Menzel for the 15 km to REK. Nothing. Walking to check on paying a taxi both ways to just take us there when the Casa bus comes thru town. Stops for us. Seems to know we need a ride from the look on our faces as we’re walking down the street. Climb aboard and we’re REK bound. Now I know the VERY latest option from Sefrou to REK is that bus. Miss it and I’m in Sefrou for the night.
So Saturday was a lazy one. Up late and pancakes, fruit and coffee for breakfast. Went down to the Coop to show the other PCVs what Adwal does. Invited for lunch or tea w/them, also invited for fruit and juice w/woman next door to Coop. Merhaba. A little pilates, some naps, and showers all around, as many of them don’t have running water in their sites. Then we had to deal w/du (electricity) going off and on as we cooked a late dinner. Called my landlord at 10:30 when it wasn’t coming back on and he and his sidekick got the magana fixed. Back in business.
Four of them got an early start this morning to catch transit home, but poor Megan has GI problems, so is staying here. No fun trying to manage transit travel w/GI trouble. By 9am I’ve cleaned the kitchen, worked out on the roof, done laundry and am going to go down and see the Coop women for a bit while Megan naps. Going later to the Belladya-something about Hfla f drari (party for kids) that I’m invited to. I’m thinking it’s a kids’ end of school performance, since my tutor from El Menzel was asking about a simple song to teach their kids to sing at a performance. We’ll see. Meanwhile, I'm looking forward to having the next 3 days in my site-been travelling so much, it's nice to just stay put a few days.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Spaaaaaaahhhhhh
Finally sanity prevails! It’s apparently hot enough for the natives to be practical. The women in the Coop, while they show up in their jellabas and headscarves, are in t-shirts, cotton knit pants w/loosely tied scarves just around their hair-not all around their necks, and everyone has a water bottle. The heat is getting to everyone. The streets are pretty quiet in the middle of the day, and the cafes are hopping in the evening. It’s more rutuba (humid) than I expected-like summer mountain storm weather. Don’t know if it’s normal or not. Oh well, could be worse-could be in the south where it’s blistering.
Then it was off to Rabat and Casablanca. A call to the Country Director in Marrakech during IST that he passed on to me has resulted in an invitation to attend a couple of meetings. The Director and I met with women from the U.S.-Middle East Partnership for Breast Cancer Awareness and Research and another organization called Vital Voices on Monday at the Peace Corps office in Rabat. They are working on an initiative to empower women, and are using Breast Health Awareness as their platform to initiate a dialogue in rural Morocco. Then on Tuesday (today) there is a roundtable discussion in Casablanca that I’ve been invited to attend. I anticipate that the Casablanca meeting will be in French, so really not certain what my role, if any, will be. I’m involved due to the cancer screening we did here in REK in March and the contacts I have w/Dr. Asma and the Health mundub. (I’m delighted to know that Dr. Asma is going to be at the roundtable, so I’ll be able to introduce her to the MAEP and Vital Voices folks.) I’m bringing Azzedine, the PC staff liason to the GAD (Gender and Development) Volunteer Committee to the roundtable, as he may be able to get GAD involved with this project. There are certainly PCVs w/capacity to take on secondary projects, and this could lead to community workshops to be done by volunteers in any sector (not just Health as I initially was thinking). Hopefully we can help connect this initiative, thru PCV contacts, to key HCN (Host Country National) women who can bring the message to and work within their communities. That’s the real advantage that Peace Corps has....we’re on the ground, in the communities and really know the people and can help connect them to resources.
Learning to travel smart. Got on the shady side of the taxi to Fes. Boarded the train to Rabat in time for a window (and the little bit of AC that they pipe in) seat. OK, I got on the 3rd from last car in Fes. When we arrived at the Rabat Ville station, we were the last car. When exactly did we split off the last 2 cars? So if I got on the 2nd to last car, where would I have ended up and how would one know in advance? Note to self-check this out to avoid unintended destinations on future train travel.
OK, dare I confess? I’ll be the first to admit that I’ve lived a charmed life. Yes, I was spoiled with twice a month maincures/pedicures in Huntington Beach, even if it only cost me around $20 each time. So my made-it-thru-a-long-cold-dry-winter-without-a-pedicure feet, which are my primary mode of transportation in Morocco, are as bad as they’ve ever been. I’ll spare you the description of the callouses that my feet build up. Sooo...I booked myself for a manicure and pedicure in a swanky hotel around the corner from the swiya budget hotel we PCV’s stay at here in Rabat. It was a real treat, at the equivalent of $50. That’s more than what I’m paying for 3 nights at the budget hotel! A pedicure was never so good-almost don’t want to walk on my feet, they’re so pretty. I wanted to get the pedicure on Sunday when I arrived, but they didn’t have anyone available. I almost asked if I could go swimming instead-outside their small salon is an absolutely gorgeous pool in a garden setting and I was sweating like a pig. Instead, I bought cold water, Coke Zero, bread and cheese and walked back to my hotel where I stripped down, took a cold shower and sat on the bed in the heat in front of the (curtained) window in my room. Not quite the same as a dip in the pool. Last night, after the spa treatment it was wine and bruchetta w/another PCV at the German Institute. It’s all about give and take, choices, and staying flexible, yak?
OK, so today it’s the Roundtable meeting with Vital Voices and the US Middle East Breast Cancer group at the Meridien Hotel in Casablanca and back to my budget hotel in Rabat (the Meridien doesn’t fit into my Peace Corps budget) to sweat it out (literally) for the night before leaving for home via Fes on Wednesday. Wish me luck-hoping to meet w/the Director of the American Language Center in Fes for lunch tomorrow and get him to agree to “host" (for free) the Artisan Marketing Training and Craft Fair I’m developing in their beautiful garden venue. Inshallah.
Then it was off to Rabat and Casablanca. A call to the Country Director in Marrakech during IST that he passed on to me has resulted in an invitation to attend a couple of meetings. The Director and I met with women from the U.S.-Middle East Partnership for Breast Cancer Awareness and Research and another organization called Vital Voices on Monday at the Peace Corps office in Rabat. They are working on an initiative to empower women, and are using Breast Health Awareness as their platform to initiate a dialogue in rural Morocco. Then on Tuesday (today) there is a roundtable discussion in Casablanca that I’ve been invited to attend. I anticipate that the Casablanca meeting will be in French, so really not certain what my role, if any, will be. I’m involved due to the cancer screening we did here in REK in March and the contacts I have w/Dr. Asma and the Health mundub. (I’m delighted to know that Dr. Asma is going to be at the roundtable, so I’ll be able to introduce her to the MAEP and Vital Voices folks.) I’m bringing Azzedine, the PC staff liason to the GAD (Gender and Development) Volunteer Committee to the roundtable, as he may be able to get GAD involved with this project. There are certainly PCVs w/capacity to take on secondary projects, and this could lead to community workshops to be done by volunteers in any sector (not just Health as I initially was thinking). Hopefully we can help connect this initiative, thru PCV contacts, to key HCN (Host Country National) women who can bring the message to and work within their communities. That’s the real advantage that Peace Corps has....we’re on the ground, in the communities and really know the people and can help connect them to resources.
Learning to travel smart. Got on the shady side of the taxi to Fes. Boarded the train to Rabat in time for a window (and the little bit of AC that they pipe in) seat. OK, I got on the 3rd from last car in Fes. When we arrived at the Rabat Ville station, we were the last car. When exactly did we split off the last 2 cars? So if I got on the 2nd to last car, where would I have ended up and how would one know in advance? Note to self-check this out to avoid unintended destinations on future train travel.
OK, dare I confess? I’ll be the first to admit that I’ve lived a charmed life. Yes, I was spoiled with twice a month maincures/pedicures in Huntington Beach, even if it only cost me around $20 each time. So my made-it-thru-a-long-cold-dry-winter-without-a-pedicure feet, which are my primary mode of transportation in Morocco, are as bad as they’ve ever been. I’ll spare you the description of the callouses that my feet build up. Sooo...I booked myself for a manicure and pedicure in a swanky hotel around the corner from the swiya budget hotel we PCV’s stay at here in Rabat. It was a real treat, at the equivalent of $50. That’s more than what I’m paying for 3 nights at the budget hotel! A pedicure was never so good-almost don’t want to walk on my feet, they’re so pretty. I wanted to get the pedicure on Sunday when I arrived, but they didn’t have anyone available. I almost asked if I could go swimming instead-outside their small salon is an absolutely gorgeous pool in a garden setting and I was sweating like a pig. Instead, I bought cold water, Coke Zero, bread and cheese and walked back to my hotel where I stripped down, took a cold shower and sat on the bed in the heat in front of the (curtained) window in my room. Not quite the same as a dip in the pool. Last night, after the spa treatment it was wine and bruchetta w/another PCV at the German Institute. It’s all about give and take, choices, and staying flexible, yak?
OK, so today it’s the Roundtable meeting with Vital Voices and the US Middle East Breast Cancer group at the Meridien Hotel in Casablanca and back to my budget hotel in Rabat (the Meridien doesn’t fit into my Peace Corps budget) to sweat it out (literally) for the night before leaving for home via Fes on Wednesday. Wish me luck-hoping to meet w/the Director of the American Language Center in Fes for lunch tomorrow and get him to agree to “host" (for free) the Artisan Marketing Training and Craft Fair I’m developing in their beautiful garden venue. Inshallah.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Restless in REK
It’s a still night-not too hot-but not a breath of air moving. Can’t sleep. Dogs I’ve never seen before barking, growling, rooting thru garbage in the lot next door (that’s where you “throw out” your trash). Is it a full moon? maybe it’s the camel down by the transits today-where the *** did he come from? Anyone report a missing camel? Note; we do not live in camel country. Must just be the still night air making us all restless. Last 2 nights we had impressive thunder, lightning and hard rain storms-like summer mountain squalls-maybe we need the same to release whatever’s built up in the air tonight.
Elections are over-Fatima from the Coop was elected to the Belladya Board-mbruk!
School’s out and the “bac” results are in. This is a very big deal all across Morocco. This determines where (and if) you go to University. Here’s how it works: You choose a subject track for your Lycee (High School) years. You can change in the 1st of the 3 yrs, but not afterward. These tracks include l-3ulum l-insinya (human sciences), l-3ulum jrbya (experimental sciences), l-3ulum riadya (mathematical sciences) or l-adab (literature). This will determine your University track as well, should you go on to higher education levels. At end of equiv. to Jr yr in High School (here it’s 2nd yr) you take tests in some subjects and the rest at the end of your 3rd year. Your scores at the end of all the testing places you in the “appropriate” University for your track. University education is free, but few can afford to take advantage of it, ie; forgo other income, helping around the home/farm, pay for housing, etc.
Speaking of incomes, reminds me of discussion I had w/my tutor on Monday. Really nice guy and a good tutor. No full time teaching available here for him, and when summer comes, he’s unemployed, as no one tutors, esp. after the "bac" tests. Talked about relationships-here and in America. As I’ve mentioned in prior blogs, although the guys get “choice” in the matter, if they don’t have income to support a wife and kids, there’s no way to get married. Love isn’t enough. Miskin.
So which comes first, language or confidence? Who cares. It’s been working for me this week. Somehow I’m having normal conversations in Darija everywhere I go-feels like I’ve made it over a hump. In the past, when I’ve had key business meetings, I’ve either brought a translator or written out what I want to say in advance. Today I was in Fes working on the Craft Fair-gathering information and getting quotes for the budget-from a hotel for space, printers for marketing materials, finding a rental place for tables/chairs/tents, the Delegate for the Fes Artisanat to get approval, all on the heels of meeting w/Sefrou Delegate yesterday to get his sign off. Solo. Darija. Still need to carve out time for studying, but diving into more complex conversation and holding my own for the time being. Hamdullah.
Lunch in Fes w/group of wonderful women that friend Jess pulled together. Gonna try to make this a routine gathering. Inshallah I’ll be able to join up in the future-great ideas, energy, support. Like this.
Had a few spare minutes b4 meeting for lunch to duck into a cyber and check out any news from home. Been keeping fingers crossed for Debbie, Phil and Philip and their househunting and pending offer on a new home. Ham du li lah-their offer was accepted. Am sooo excited for them. Wish I could be there to help them celebrate and move in.
So why can’t I sleep if I was so tired tonight? Maybe just the effort in getting everything done today. OK, so here’s what it takes to get Fes meetings done: Wait for transit to Sefrou or Fes beginning at 7:30. First to leave is taxi to Sefrou at 8:00 (a relatively quick wait). I take it (this is after checking out the status of transit vans vs taxis, Fes vs Sefrou). Walk across Sefrou from REK taxi to Fes taxi stand. Taxi to Fes. Petit taxi in Fes to Hotel Jnan Palace. Talk w/meeting planner and gen’l mgr to get space quotes for Craft Fair budgeting. Walk to Artisanat. Delegate not in until 3:00. Walk to printer. No color printing and not enough name badges. A bust. Walk to another printer. Get color printing done. Petit taxi across town to Hotel Batha near Bab Boujaloud. Try to decipher Jess’ map to guy who rents out stuff for meetings and parties. Finally remember seeing an antique store she references and find the rental shop. Get my quotes. Meet at Boujaloud. Walk deep into medina to Place Nazarine where we meet up w/Alice and follow her to their ryad/home for lunch. Have to take my leave b4 lunch complete to meet w/Delegate. Fatima leaves with me and leads me out of medina-opposite direction from which we came-to grab petit taxi to Artisanat. Meet w/Delegate, vice Delegate and President of Artisanat Assn. Give me clearance to move fwd with Craft Fair and will loan us some of the equipment to save costs. Petit taxi to Sefrou grand taxi stand and get lucky w/a taxi w/5 people just needing one more and we take off. Walk back across Sefrou from grand taxi stand to catch transit back to REK. Home in time to catch the druggery (that’s a hardware store, not a pharmacy!) open and buy some msmar (nails). The ponge (think thick foam pad that is Moroccan couch) wooden stands that I’m borrowing from my neighbors keep collapsing (yes, this is why they weren’t using them) and need to be nailed back together. Decide tonight’s the night. Boy did a cold shower feel great after all of that-with each step of the way accompanied by plenty of sweat. So now why can’t I sleep?
Will post this in the am. No rizzo (internet connection) right now. At least the dogs have moved on and it’s quiet.
PS-just now posting the following afternoon. Camel’s gone, hopefully not just misplaced. :)
Elections are over-Fatima from the Coop was elected to the Belladya Board-mbruk!
School’s out and the “bac” results are in. This is a very big deal all across Morocco. This determines where (and if) you go to University. Here’s how it works: You choose a subject track for your Lycee (High School) years. You can change in the 1st of the 3 yrs, but not afterward. These tracks include l-3ulum l-insinya (human sciences), l-3ulum jrbya (experimental sciences), l-3ulum riadya (mathematical sciences) or l-adab (literature). This will determine your University track as well, should you go on to higher education levels. At end of equiv. to Jr yr in High School (here it’s 2nd yr) you take tests in some subjects and the rest at the end of your 3rd year. Your scores at the end of all the testing places you in the “appropriate” University for your track. University education is free, but few can afford to take advantage of it, ie; forgo other income, helping around the home/farm, pay for housing, etc.
Speaking of incomes, reminds me of discussion I had w/my tutor on Monday. Really nice guy and a good tutor. No full time teaching available here for him, and when summer comes, he’s unemployed, as no one tutors, esp. after the "bac" tests. Talked about relationships-here and in America. As I’ve mentioned in prior blogs, although the guys get “choice” in the matter, if they don’t have income to support a wife and kids, there’s no way to get married. Love isn’t enough. Miskin.
So which comes first, language or confidence? Who cares. It’s been working for me this week. Somehow I’m having normal conversations in Darija everywhere I go-feels like I’ve made it over a hump. In the past, when I’ve had key business meetings, I’ve either brought a translator or written out what I want to say in advance. Today I was in Fes working on the Craft Fair-gathering information and getting quotes for the budget-from a hotel for space, printers for marketing materials, finding a rental place for tables/chairs/tents, the Delegate for the Fes Artisanat to get approval, all on the heels of meeting w/Sefrou Delegate yesterday to get his sign off. Solo. Darija. Still need to carve out time for studying, but diving into more complex conversation and holding my own for the time being. Hamdullah.
Lunch in Fes w/group of wonderful women that friend Jess pulled together. Gonna try to make this a routine gathering. Inshallah I’ll be able to join up in the future-great ideas, energy, support. Like this.
Had a few spare minutes b4 meeting for lunch to duck into a cyber and check out any news from home. Been keeping fingers crossed for Debbie, Phil and Philip and their househunting and pending offer on a new home. Ham du li lah-their offer was accepted. Am sooo excited for them. Wish I could be there to help them celebrate and move in.
So why can’t I sleep if I was so tired tonight? Maybe just the effort in getting everything done today. OK, so here’s what it takes to get Fes meetings done: Wait for transit to Sefrou or Fes beginning at 7:30. First to leave is taxi to Sefrou at 8:00 (a relatively quick wait). I take it (this is after checking out the status of transit vans vs taxis, Fes vs Sefrou). Walk across Sefrou from REK taxi to Fes taxi stand. Taxi to Fes. Petit taxi in Fes to Hotel Jnan Palace. Talk w/meeting planner and gen’l mgr to get space quotes for Craft Fair budgeting. Walk to Artisanat. Delegate not in until 3:00. Walk to printer. No color printing and not enough name badges. A bust. Walk to another printer. Get color printing done. Petit taxi across town to Hotel Batha near Bab Boujaloud. Try to decipher Jess’ map to guy who rents out stuff for meetings and parties. Finally remember seeing an antique store she references and find the rental shop. Get my quotes. Meet at Boujaloud. Walk deep into medina to Place Nazarine where we meet up w/Alice and follow her to their ryad/home for lunch. Have to take my leave b4 lunch complete to meet w/Delegate. Fatima leaves with me and leads me out of medina-opposite direction from which we came-to grab petit taxi to Artisanat. Meet w/Delegate, vice Delegate and President of Artisanat Assn. Give me clearance to move fwd with Craft Fair and will loan us some of the equipment to save costs. Petit taxi to Sefrou grand taxi stand and get lucky w/a taxi w/5 people just needing one more and we take off. Walk back across Sefrou from grand taxi stand to catch transit back to REK. Home in time to catch the druggery (that’s a hardware store, not a pharmacy!) open and buy some msmar (nails). The ponge (think thick foam pad that is Moroccan couch) wooden stands that I’m borrowing from my neighbors keep collapsing (yes, this is why they weren’t using them) and need to be nailed back together. Decide tonight’s the night. Boy did a cold shower feel great after all of that-with each step of the way accompanied by plenty of sweat. So now why can’t I sleep?
Will post this in the am. No rizzo (internet connection) right now. At least the dogs have moved on and it’s quiet.
PS-just now posting the following afternoon. Camel’s gone, hopefully not just misplaced. :)
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Heat Wave....
Decided to depart Marrakech Sat morning-first opportunity to do so to get back to REK. Can’t get there in one day unless I took the 7am train-and why do that? Overnight in Fes and on to REK in the morning. No matter how much I complained about the cold last winter, I’m glad I’m not in the heat of the south. It’s been brutal all week-6 of us in a 5 person bungalow, and sleeping on the ponges in the salon to catch any moving air.
Yesterday the 4 hour train from Marrakech to Rabat was stifling. Literally an oven-outside heat on an all metal bullet travelling thru desert-like area, baking us to a crisp. Gotta keep hydrated-tons of water, no need to use the disgusting bathrooms on the train. As soon as we get near the coast at Casablanca, the temp decreases 10 degrees-a welcome change. Haven’t sweat this much, this consistently in a long time. Welcome to summer in Morocco. Just glad I had the free fan that they gave away at the Sacred Music Fest with me to push a little air around my head.
Long night in Fes. Couldn’t sleep. Hot and humid-like summer mountain pre-storm air. No breeze. Bugs biting. Sweating and hot flashes on top of it all. Ugh. Realize the natives are miserable as well as they wipe the sweat from their brows and ask if I slept at all. And I ask you, how do the women handle it with their heads fully wrapped up and still in jellabas over their clothes?
Travelling back to REK, past the just-harvested wheat fields. Bundles of wheat tied up for collection. Some women still harvesting bent over w/scythe in hand. Seasons move quickly. The watermelon and apricots are prime right now. Seeing grilled corn on the braziers for sale. Cherry tomatoes are like candy. I enjoy watching for what produce is in season as the weather changes.
I’m antsy to get home as I feel like I have a ton of work to do and not enough time to get it done. Next big project is working on the Regional Craft Fair in Fes. Here’s the idea:
Many artisans that Peace Corps works with have limited marketing opportunities. Most are not in tourist towns and have limited access to markets outside their own villages. The craft fairs and expos that the Ministry organizes are irregular, often set up or cancelled on short notice, and poorly promoted. This leads to disappointing sales by the attendees who must cover their travel costs and subsequently are discouraged to attend future expos. In addition, there are consumers, ie; expats, urban HCNs, who are interested in supporting indigenous crafts, fair wages and local artisans, but do not have the means or interest in travelling to the countryside and don’t go into the medinas.
Peace Corps would partner with Regional Ministry and potentially other non-commercial organizations to support the craft fairs. The mission of the project is to create a venue for Peace Corps supported artisans to sell their products and provide key business and leadership skill training to the artisans while they are there. These will include workshops on Cost/Pricing, Leadership/Succession Planning, Product Development, Marketing and Sales. In addition, I’m hoping to bring in either the guy I met w/in Casablanca or a woman from the Ministry of Artisana to do individual product quality consultations with the artisans.
Can you tell I’m working on the grant development phase?? I’ve got the project design done and approved conceptually with Peace Corps and had the opportunity to share it formally w/the rest of my training mates in Marrakech to solicit their interest and support. I’ve got to finalize the budget, then sit down with the Ministry people to get their support and the American Language Center in Fes to talk w/the Director for support to hold the event in their beautiful gardens. This is all of course complicated by the fact that I can’t do any of these things at my site or over the phone or email due to language and access-most of the people who I need to talk with set their own hours. Inshallah we’ll be able to pull this off and will have created a new, lucrative marketing opportunity for our artisans.
Finally arrive home this afternoon to find that the power and water are out. All over town. Energy saving step. Power came back on around 5pm, but still no water. No cooking tonight and laundry will have to wait. Hamdullah.
Yesterday the 4 hour train from Marrakech to Rabat was stifling. Literally an oven-outside heat on an all metal bullet travelling thru desert-like area, baking us to a crisp. Gotta keep hydrated-tons of water, no need to use the disgusting bathrooms on the train. As soon as we get near the coast at Casablanca, the temp decreases 10 degrees-a welcome change. Haven’t sweat this much, this consistently in a long time. Welcome to summer in Morocco. Just glad I had the free fan that they gave away at the Sacred Music Fest with me to push a little air around my head.
Long night in Fes. Couldn’t sleep. Hot and humid-like summer mountain pre-storm air. No breeze. Bugs biting. Sweating and hot flashes on top of it all. Ugh. Realize the natives are miserable as well as they wipe the sweat from their brows and ask if I slept at all. And I ask you, how do the women handle it with their heads fully wrapped up and still in jellabas over their clothes?
Travelling back to REK, past the just-harvested wheat fields. Bundles of wheat tied up for collection. Some women still harvesting bent over w/scythe in hand. Seasons move quickly. The watermelon and apricots are prime right now. Seeing grilled corn on the braziers for sale. Cherry tomatoes are like candy. I enjoy watching for what produce is in season as the weather changes.
I’m antsy to get home as I feel like I have a ton of work to do and not enough time to get it done. Next big project is working on the Regional Craft Fair in Fes. Here’s the idea:
Many artisans that Peace Corps works with have limited marketing opportunities. Most are not in tourist towns and have limited access to markets outside their own villages. The craft fairs and expos that the Ministry organizes are irregular, often set up or cancelled on short notice, and poorly promoted. This leads to disappointing sales by the attendees who must cover their travel costs and subsequently are discouraged to attend future expos. In addition, there are consumers, ie; expats, urban HCNs, who are interested in supporting indigenous crafts, fair wages and local artisans, but do not have the means or interest in travelling to the countryside and don’t go into the medinas.
Peace Corps would partner with Regional Ministry and potentially other non-commercial organizations to support the craft fairs. The mission of the project is to create a venue for Peace Corps supported artisans to sell their products and provide key business and leadership skill training to the artisans while they are there. These will include workshops on Cost/Pricing, Leadership/Succession Planning, Product Development, Marketing and Sales. In addition, I’m hoping to bring in either the guy I met w/in Casablanca or a woman from the Ministry of Artisana to do individual product quality consultations with the artisans.
Can you tell I’m working on the grant development phase?? I’ve got the project design done and approved conceptually with Peace Corps and had the opportunity to share it formally w/the rest of my training mates in Marrakech to solicit their interest and support. I’ve got to finalize the budget, then sit down with the Ministry people to get their support and the American Language Center in Fes to talk w/the Director for support to hold the event in their beautiful gardens. This is all of course complicated by the fact that I can’t do any of these things at my site or over the phone or email due to language and access-most of the people who I need to talk with set their own hours. Inshallah we’ll be able to pull this off and will have created a new, lucrative marketing opportunity for our artisans.
Finally arrive home this afternoon to find that the power and water are out. All over town. Energy saving step. Power came back on around 5pm, but still no water. No cooking tonight and laundry will have to wait. Hamdullah.
Friday, June 12, 2009
'Kech
Before I forget, Happy Birthday to cousins Tracy and Karen-and welcome to the 50’s!
Been a long week here in Marrakech. Great to see the rest of the “stag” that trained together, but the program content has been swiya. Our counterparts (that’s the person in the artisanal Coop/Assn/Neddi/Org we are assigned to for our primary project) were here on Tues/Wed. It was good to spend time w/them, and hopefully it was beneficial for them to be here. I was delighted to find out that Zahra, who came with me, approached the man who came from the Marrakech Ensemble Artisanat to try to get Adwal’s products in their showroom. Each major city has an Ensemble Artisanat where there are artisan workshops and a showroom. Prices are fixed (quite unlike the routine hard bargaining in the medina), more of the price goes directly to the artisan, and the quality is high. The guy agreed, and she’s going by to see him to negotiate the logistics of a trial period of 3 months with Adwal products. Go Zahra!
We had our 6 month language tests while we were here. I’ve improved in the ratings-no surprise, I’m not at the Advanced level, but happy being Intermediate Medium. I’ve still got my tutors and will continue to work on improving both my language and comprehension.
Marrakech has a distinctive look-like what you see as a stereotypical Moroccan postcard...that pinkish/orange paint on all buildings-same all over town, palm trees and even a kinda modernish architecture style. Hot. It’s much hotter here than my site-we are pretty far south. Typical of big cities, the taxi drivers try to rip you off every time you get in their taxi. Fortunately we know how to get them to turn on the magana (meter) or get out. I’ll have to post photos from last Saturday night when I arrived of the medina plaza-it’s pretty cool. I’m planning on getting to the mellah (old Jewish quarter) and a famous garden tomorrow before heading for the train home.
Fortunately the place we’re staying has a pool which we’ve used every day after sessions (since it’s been over 105 degrees) until we’re kicked out at 7pm when it closes. I think of nephew Philip every time I jump in.
The Director of PC Morocco has been w/us this week and got a call out of the blue from someone w/Middle East Partnership for Breast Cancer Awareness and Research. She’s working on a project to research epidimiology, awareness, treatment, etc. of breast cancer in Morocco. David passed the phone to me and I’m getting them in touch w/the MD and health mundub in Sefrou who were so helpful w/the cancer screening that we did. We’re all meeting in Casablanca week after next to hopefully work on this project. It goes to show that you never know where an idea may travel.
Gonna sign out and post this...not much to really talk about on this blog...more later.
Been a long week here in Marrakech. Great to see the rest of the “stag” that trained together, but the program content has been swiya. Our counterparts (that’s the person in the artisanal Coop/Assn/Neddi/Org we are assigned to for our primary project) were here on Tues/Wed. It was good to spend time w/them, and hopefully it was beneficial for them to be here. I was delighted to find out that Zahra, who came with me, approached the man who came from the Marrakech Ensemble Artisanat to try to get Adwal’s products in their showroom. Each major city has an Ensemble Artisanat where there are artisan workshops and a showroom. Prices are fixed (quite unlike the routine hard bargaining in the medina), more of the price goes directly to the artisan, and the quality is high. The guy agreed, and she’s going by to see him to negotiate the logistics of a trial period of 3 months with Adwal products. Go Zahra!
We had our 6 month language tests while we were here. I’ve improved in the ratings-no surprise, I’m not at the Advanced level, but happy being Intermediate Medium. I’ve still got my tutors and will continue to work on improving both my language and comprehension.
Marrakech has a distinctive look-like what you see as a stereotypical Moroccan postcard...that pinkish/orange paint on all buildings-same all over town, palm trees and even a kinda modernish architecture style. Hot. It’s much hotter here than my site-we are pretty far south. Typical of big cities, the taxi drivers try to rip you off every time you get in their taxi. Fortunately we know how to get them to turn on the magana (meter) or get out. I’ll have to post photos from last Saturday night when I arrived of the medina plaza-it’s pretty cool. I’m planning on getting to the mellah (old Jewish quarter) and a famous garden tomorrow before heading for the train home.
Fortunately the place we’re staying has a pool which we’ve used every day after sessions (since it’s been over 105 degrees) until we’re kicked out at 7pm when it closes. I think of nephew Philip every time I jump in.
The Director of PC Morocco has been w/us this week and got a call out of the blue from someone w/Middle East Partnership for Breast Cancer Awareness and Research. She’s working on a project to research epidimiology, awareness, treatment, etc. of breast cancer in Morocco. David passed the phone to me and I’m getting them in touch w/the MD and health mundub in Sefrou who were so helpful w/the cancer screening that we did. We’re all meeting in Casablanca week after next to hopefully work on this project. It goes to show that you never know where an idea may travel.
Gonna sign out and post this...not much to really talk about on this blog...more later.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Marrakech Express
Another interesting, busy week.
Gotta give you a description of Sunday night’s concert in Fes. A two-parter. First there were the Whirling Dervishes from Turkey accompanied by traditional music and chanting. The Dervishes are a sufi sect and the whirling puts them into a trance. Me too. Mesmerizing.This was followed by a contemporary take on the Dervishes-modern dance style-with computerized accompaniment by one guy w/a laptop on stage. Fabulous contrast and amazing talent. Now let me give you the backdrop. This was at the Bab El Makina. This is an old-medina-walled space the size of a football field. Huge doors (bab) at front w/ramparts beautifully lit. A star lit warm evening. Fessians in full regalia. Fabulous.
Then it was off to Casablanca by train to meet w/a guy who used to be with the Artisana Ministry to pick his brain about Fair Trade status for artisans in Morocco. Great discussion-what a great resource. Tells me he might be in Marrakech next week when we have IST (In-Service Training) there. I passed this along to our Program Manager and he’s gonna invite Mohamed to come talk with us. Inshallah.
Then on to Rabat for my final dentist appt to get my crown. What is it about Morocco and teeth? I’ve had 2 crowns crack and replaced since I’ve been here. Thank goodness I’ve been perfectly healthy otherwise.
Get home Tuesday finally, only to have Stevie (Environ PCV just ended service but staying in Beni Mkoud) ask if he can stay at my place that night. Was really looking forward to having a little time to myself. Oh well. Sure you can stay. He’s having trouble buying the property he wants, his trip to Belarus w/family has glitches and he needed to vent to someone in English. I get it. Been there, will be there again. We PCVs need to be there for one another.
Glad to be back in my site Wednesday when I ran into the local clinic MD. Good thing that happened. I had passed along the info I got from Dr. Asma in Sefrou to Fatima to pass along to the 3 women who had positive gyn labs for cancer. She was to tell them to get to Dr. Faisal for final paperwork, get their certificates of indigence and go to Sefrou on June 9th to see Asma. Something didn’t compute, as he hadn’t seen any of the 3 women. Got to Fatima again to relay the message that the 3 needed to see him yesterday or today in the am-last chance so they can get to Asma on the 9th. One of the women-must be 80, can hardly walk, shows up at the Coop yesterday. Says Faisal won’t see her. Huh? So I escort her to the sbitar personally. Faisal sees her, gets her the paperwork and she’ll go to Sefrou next Tues. While I was gone, one of the other women showed up and was sent to the sbitar. Inshallah they can be treated.
Then a friend from Fes came to town w/3 of her friends. She’s writing a Moroccan cookbook and wanted to get into the countryside to taste rural cuisine and visit rural weavers. I paid the Coop women to make lunch for all of us. (They normally have a small lunch together that one of the women makes and I join them occasionally, but this was 5 more people and wanted to treat everyone to more of a meal). We all ate together-friends from England, Australia, Norway, me and the Coop women. Zahra had her sister cook chicken w/olives and preserved lemon. The friends declared it the best chicken they’ve had in Morocco. Unfortunately Tara, the cookbook author, was having GI problems, so couldn’t eat it. Meskina.
Here’s an observation that I’m pleased to make. The requests I’m getting are less for money-can I pay for or get money for things, and more to help others get something done. This is encouraging that the people making requests are both taking initiative and want to learn how to do for themselves. Metalan: Dr. Faisal wants help with a grant application for computers for the sbitar. Can I help? Miriam is working with the new Tourism Assn in town and doesn’t know where to start on acquiring/building a “jit” (overnight shelter for hikers). Can I help her get started and make contact w/the Moroccan guide who was in town last week who has done this before?
Meanwhile, the cafes are buzzing late into the evening these days. Elections are next week. Campaigning is fierce. Flyers, networking all around. Fatima from the Coop is running for Belladya board. The Belladya is President of the Urban Commune for REK-kinda like mayor. The board is kinda like City Council. From what I understood, there are 4 women running and 2 will be on the board, so Fatima has an excellent chance. Good for her. Hopefully that doesn’t impact the Coop, as she’s an essential talent to the operation of Adwal. Of course, that just speaks to the importance of Leadership Development and succession planning-concepts I’ve been introducing to Fatima and Zahra, but no progress made on that front to date.
Embarrassed that I don’t know the name of the pharmacist around the corner. I stop and talk with her all the time, and if I don’t stop as I pass by, she calls out to me. A real sweetheart. Anyway, she’s proposed that she, Hind (Fatima’s sister) and I start walking together in the mornings for an hour. Love the idea. Inshallah when I return from Marrakech we can start.
Heard from OC friend Samira (born and raised in Morocco) this week on her travel plans to Tangier next month. She and her husband have bought a condo there, and she has family all over Northern Morocco. I’m gonna go visit her the 2nd week of July-will be so great to see her, see Tangier thru a native’s eyes, speak Darija with her, etc. Yipee.
So despite all the travel and time out of my site, I have to say that I’m excited to be going to Marrakech this week. In addition to seeing everyone from training-all 28 of us-will be the first time seeing most of them since we were sworn in last November, it will be fun to finally see Marrakech as well. Long-ass train ride tomorrow...go to Fes in the am, then 4 hr train to Casablanca and 3 hr train to Marrakech. Got reading material and language study material to fill the time.
Marrakech
Didn't get this posted, so will add on the trip to Marrakech yesterday......
But first the birthday party. On Jess' rooftop in the Sefrou medina. Her neighbor who she's adopted doesn't know his birthday, so she gave him hers. Party on the roof w/Jeleliyat (all female drumming and singing group of traditional Moroccan music). Berber-like blanket tenting the sun. Dancing. Neighbors up on their rooftops to see what's going on. Neighbor boys dancing on their rooftops to the beat of Jeleliyat as the sun goes down. Couscous for dinner.
7 hours by train-that's after you get yourself to Fes. Scenery definitely has changed. Dorothy, we're not it the Middle Atlas anymore.... It's brown and flat and any building has a distinctive construction w/pinkish-brown paint. Huh-just like you see in the pictures-go figure! The olive groves are history, replaced by eucalyptus, cactus and palm trees, but even those are not abundant. It's a dry heat-but much warmer than my old REK.
Morocco rail system. Interesting. It's available along the coast from Casablanca north to Tangier. There's an eastern rail line Rabat to Oujda. Then there's the diagonal rail from Casa to Marrakech. That's it. Amazing. The rest of travel is train, grand taxi, transits, etc. on sometimes swiya roads.
But I'm in Marrakech. In a week's time have been to Fes, Rabat, Casablanca and Marrakech. This is a good gig!
Walked all over the old medina last night after getting in. So full of life. Djemaa el-Fna is just like the photos, a bit more touristy and less magical. Gnoua musicians walking around, spinning the tassels on their heads, Nancy-tell Jack that the watermen were all over, others w/little monkeys, a guy promising that his lizard will cure what ails you, the ubiquitous snake charmers, get a henna tattoo, your cards or palm read, a sandwich or bowl of harira or fresh orange juice, a carriage ride...it's all here! Merhaba.
Gotta give you a description of Sunday night’s concert in Fes. A two-parter. First there were the Whirling Dervishes from Turkey accompanied by traditional music and chanting. The Dervishes are a sufi sect and the whirling puts them into a trance. Me too. Mesmerizing.This was followed by a contemporary take on the Dervishes-modern dance style-with computerized accompaniment by one guy w/a laptop on stage. Fabulous contrast and amazing talent. Now let me give you the backdrop. This was at the Bab El Makina. This is an old-medina-walled space the size of a football field. Huge doors (bab) at front w/ramparts beautifully lit. A star lit warm evening. Fessians in full regalia. Fabulous.
Then it was off to Casablanca by train to meet w/a guy who used to be with the Artisana Ministry to pick his brain about Fair Trade status for artisans in Morocco. Great discussion-what a great resource. Tells me he might be in Marrakech next week when we have IST (In-Service Training) there. I passed this along to our Program Manager and he’s gonna invite Mohamed to come talk with us. Inshallah.
Then on to Rabat for my final dentist appt to get my crown. What is it about Morocco and teeth? I’ve had 2 crowns crack and replaced since I’ve been here. Thank goodness I’ve been perfectly healthy otherwise.
Get home Tuesday finally, only to have Stevie (Environ PCV just ended service but staying in Beni Mkoud) ask if he can stay at my place that night. Was really looking forward to having a little time to myself. Oh well. Sure you can stay. He’s having trouble buying the property he wants, his trip to Belarus w/family has glitches and he needed to vent to someone in English. I get it. Been there, will be there again. We PCVs need to be there for one another.
Glad to be back in my site Wednesday when I ran into the local clinic MD. Good thing that happened. I had passed along the info I got from Dr. Asma in Sefrou to Fatima to pass along to the 3 women who had positive gyn labs for cancer. She was to tell them to get to Dr. Faisal for final paperwork, get their certificates of indigence and go to Sefrou on June 9th to see Asma. Something didn’t compute, as he hadn’t seen any of the 3 women. Got to Fatima again to relay the message that the 3 needed to see him yesterday or today in the am-last chance so they can get to Asma on the 9th. One of the women-must be 80, can hardly walk, shows up at the Coop yesterday. Says Faisal won’t see her. Huh? So I escort her to the sbitar personally. Faisal sees her, gets her the paperwork and she’ll go to Sefrou next Tues. While I was gone, one of the other women showed up and was sent to the sbitar. Inshallah they can be treated.
Then a friend from Fes came to town w/3 of her friends. She’s writing a Moroccan cookbook and wanted to get into the countryside to taste rural cuisine and visit rural weavers. I paid the Coop women to make lunch for all of us. (They normally have a small lunch together that one of the women makes and I join them occasionally, but this was 5 more people and wanted to treat everyone to more of a meal). We all ate together-friends from England, Australia, Norway, me and the Coop women. Zahra had her sister cook chicken w/olives and preserved lemon. The friends declared it the best chicken they’ve had in Morocco. Unfortunately Tara, the cookbook author, was having GI problems, so couldn’t eat it. Meskina.
Here’s an observation that I’m pleased to make. The requests I’m getting are less for money-can I pay for or get money for things, and more to help others get something done. This is encouraging that the people making requests are both taking initiative and want to learn how to do for themselves. Metalan: Dr. Faisal wants help with a grant application for computers for the sbitar. Can I help? Miriam is working with the new Tourism Assn in town and doesn’t know where to start on acquiring/building a “jit” (overnight shelter for hikers). Can I help her get started and make contact w/the Moroccan guide who was in town last week who has done this before?
Meanwhile, the cafes are buzzing late into the evening these days. Elections are next week. Campaigning is fierce. Flyers, networking all around. Fatima from the Coop is running for Belladya board. The Belladya is President of the Urban Commune for REK-kinda like mayor. The board is kinda like City Council. From what I understood, there are 4 women running and 2 will be on the board, so Fatima has an excellent chance. Good for her. Hopefully that doesn’t impact the Coop, as she’s an essential talent to the operation of Adwal. Of course, that just speaks to the importance of Leadership Development and succession planning-concepts I’ve been introducing to Fatima and Zahra, but no progress made on that front to date.
Embarrassed that I don’t know the name of the pharmacist around the corner. I stop and talk with her all the time, and if I don’t stop as I pass by, she calls out to me. A real sweetheart. Anyway, she’s proposed that she, Hind (Fatima’s sister) and I start walking together in the mornings for an hour. Love the idea. Inshallah when I return from Marrakech we can start.
Heard from OC friend Samira (born and raised in Morocco) this week on her travel plans to Tangier next month. She and her husband have bought a condo there, and she has family all over Northern Morocco. I’m gonna go visit her the 2nd week of July-will be so great to see her, see Tangier thru a native’s eyes, speak Darija with her, etc. Yipee.
So despite all the travel and time out of my site, I have to say that I’m excited to be going to Marrakech this week. In addition to seeing everyone from training-all 28 of us-will be the first time seeing most of them since we were sworn in last November, it will be fun to finally see Marrakech as well. Long-ass train ride tomorrow...go to Fes in the am, then 4 hr train to Casablanca and 3 hr train to Marrakech. Got reading material and language study material to fill the time.
Marrakech
Didn't get this posted, so will add on the trip to Marrakech yesterday......
But first the birthday party. On Jess' rooftop in the Sefrou medina. Her neighbor who she's adopted doesn't know his birthday, so she gave him hers. Party on the roof w/Jeleliyat (all female drumming and singing group of traditional Moroccan music). Berber-like blanket tenting the sun. Dancing. Neighbors up on their rooftops to see what's going on. Neighbor boys dancing on their rooftops to the beat of Jeleliyat as the sun goes down. Couscous for dinner.
7 hours by train-that's after you get yourself to Fes. Scenery definitely has changed. Dorothy, we're not it the Middle Atlas anymore.... It's brown and flat and any building has a distinctive construction w/pinkish-brown paint. Huh-just like you see in the pictures-go figure! The olive groves are history, replaced by eucalyptus, cactus and palm trees, but even those are not abundant. It's a dry heat-but much warmer than my old REK.
Morocco rail system. Interesting. It's available along the coast from Casablanca north to Tangier. There's an eastern rail line Rabat to Oujda. Then there's the diagonal rail from Casa to Marrakech. That's it. Amazing. The rest of travel is train, grand taxi, transits, etc. on sometimes swiya roads.
But I'm in Marrakech. In a week's time have been to Fes, Rabat, Casablanca and Marrakech. This is a good gig!
Walked all over the old medina last night after getting in. So full of life. Djemaa el-Fna is just like the photos, a bit more touristy and less magical. Gnoua musicians walking around, spinning the tassels on their heads, Nancy-tell Jack that the watermen were all over, others w/little monkeys, a guy promising that his lizard will cure what ails you, the ubiquitous snake charmers, get a henna tattoo, your cards or palm read, a sandwich or bowl of harira or fresh orange juice, a carriage ride...it's all here! Merhaba.
Friday, June 5, 2009
Just another busy week...
Gotta give you a description of Sunday night’s concert in Fes. A two-parter. First there were the Whirling Dervishes from Turkey accompanied by traditional music and chanting. The Dervishes are a sufi sect and the whirling puts them into a trance. Me too. Mesmerizing.This was followed by a contemporary take on the Dervishes-modern dance style-with computerized accompaniment by one guy w/a laptop on stage. Fabulous contrast and amazing talent. Now let me give you the backdrop. This was at the Bab El Makina. This is an old-medina-walled space the size of a football field and open to the sky. Huge doors (bab) at front w/ramparts and walls beautifully lit. A star-lit warm evening. Fessians in full regalia. Fabulous.
Then it was off to Casablanca by train to meet w/a guy who used to be with the Artisana Ministry to pick his brain about Fair Trade status for artisans in Morocco. Great discussion-what a great resource. Tells me he might be in Marrakech next week when we have IST (In-Service Training) there. I passed this along to our Program Manager and he’s gonna invite Mohamed to come talk with us. Inshallah.
Then on to Rabat for dentist appt to get final crown. What is it about Morocco and teeth? I’ve had 2 crowns crack and replaced since I’ve been here. Thank goodness I’ve been perfectly healthy otherwise.
Finally get home Tuesday, looking forward to time to myself, only to have Stevie (Environ PCV just ended service but staying in Beni Mkoud) ask if he can stay at my place that night. Oh well. Sure you can stay. He’s having trouble buying the property he wants, his trip to Belarus w/family has glitches and he needed to vent to someone in English. I get it. Been there, will be there again. We PCVs need to be there for one another.
Glad to be back in my site Wednesday when I ran into the local clinic MD. Good thing that happened. I had passed along the info I got from Dr. Asma in Sefrou to Fatima (Coop) to pass along to the 3 women who had positive gyn labs for cancer. She was to tell them to get to Dr. Faisal for final paperwork, get their certificates of indigence and go to Sefrou on June 9th to see Asma. Something didn’t compute, as he hadn’t seen any of the 3 women. Got to Fatima again to relay the message that the 3 needed to see him yesterday or today in the am-last chance so they can get to Asma on the 9th. One of the women-must be 80, can hardly walk, shows up at the Coop yesterday. Says Faisal won’t see her. Huh? So I escort her to the sbitar. Faisal sees her, gets her the paperwork and she’ll go to Sefrou next Tues. While I was gone, one of the other women showed up and was sent to the sbitar. Good reminder to check back that things are done-w/illiteracy and lack of phones, can be difficult to ensure good communication. Inshallah they can all be treated.
Then a friend from Fes came to town w/3 of her friends. She’s writing a Moroccan cookbook and wanted to get into the countryside to taste rural cuisine and visit rural weavers. I paid the Coop women to make lunch for all of us. (They normally have a small lunch together that one of the women makes and I join them occasionally, but this was 5 more people and wanted to treat everyone to more of a meal). We all ate together-friends from England, Australia, Norway, me and the Coop women. Zahra had her sister cook chicken w/olives and preserved lemon. The friends declared it the best chicken they’ve had in Morocco. Unfortunately Tara, the cookbook author, was having GI problems, so couldn’t eat it. Meskina.
Here’s an observation that I’m pleased to make. The requests I’m getting around town are less for money and more to help others get something done. This is encouraging that the people making requests are both taking initiative and want to learn how to do for themselves. Metalan: Dr. Faisal wants help with a grant application for computers for the sbitar. Marian is working with the new Tourism Assn in town and doesn’t know where to start on acquiring/building a “jit” (overnight shelter for hikers). Can I help her get started and make contact w/the Moroccan guide who was in town last week who has done this before?
Meanwhile, the cafes are buzzing late into the evening these days. Elections are next week. Campaigning is fierce. Flyers, networking all around. Fatima from the Coop is running for Belladya board. The Belladya is President of the Urban Commune for REK-kinda like mayor. The board is kinda like City Council. From what I understand, there are 4 women running and 2 will be on the board, so Fatima has an excellent chance. Good for her. Hopefully that doesn’t impact the Coop, as she’s an essential talent to the operation of Adwal. Of course, that just speaks to the importance of Leadership Development and succession planning-concepts I’ve been introducing to Fatima and Zahra, but no progress made on that front to date.
Embarrassed that I don’t know the name of the pharmacist around the corner. I stop and talk with her all the time, and if I don’t stop as I pass by, she calls out to me. A real sweetheart. Anyway, she’s proposed that she, Hind (Fatima’s sister) and I start walking together in the mornings for an hour. Love the idea. Inshallah when I return from Marrakech we can start.
Heard from OC friend Samira (born and raised in Morocco) this week on her travel plans to Tangier next month. She and her husband have bought a condo there, and she has family all over Northern Morocco. I’m gonna go visit her the 2nd week of July-will be so great to see her, see Tangier thru a native’s eyes, speak Darija with her, etc. Yipee.
So despite all the travel and time out of my site, I have to say that I’m excited to be going to Marrakech this week. In addition to seeing everyone from training-all 28 of us-will be the first time seeing most of them since we were sworn in last November, it will be fun to finally see Marrakech as well. Long-ass train ride tomorrow...go to Fes in the am, then 4 hr train to Casablanca and 3 hr train to Marrakech. Got reading material and language study material to fill the time.
Meanwhile, I'm in Sefrou today-get a little business done at the Artisana, then a birthday party for Jess and her neighbor friend Achmed. Achmed doesn't know his actual birthday (not unusual, as birthdays aren't traditionally celebrated in Morocco), so Jess gave him hers, and the celebration is tonight at her place on the roof. Fun!
B'slama.
Then it was off to Casablanca by train to meet w/a guy who used to be with the Artisana Ministry to pick his brain about Fair Trade status for artisans in Morocco. Great discussion-what a great resource. Tells me he might be in Marrakech next week when we have IST (In-Service Training) there. I passed this along to our Program Manager and he’s gonna invite Mohamed to come talk with us. Inshallah.
Then on to Rabat for dentist appt to get final crown. What is it about Morocco and teeth? I’ve had 2 crowns crack and replaced since I’ve been here. Thank goodness I’ve been perfectly healthy otherwise.
Finally get home Tuesday, looking forward to time to myself, only to have Stevie (Environ PCV just ended service but staying in Beni Mkoud) ask if he can stay at my place that night. Oh well. Sure you can stay. He’s having trouble buying the property he wants, his trip to Belarus w/family has glitches and he needed to vent to someone in English. I get it. Been there, will be there again. We PCVs need to be there for one another.
Glad to be back in my site Wednesday when I ran into the local clinic MD. Good thing that happened. I had passed along the info I got from Dr. Asma in Sefrou to Fatima (Coop) to pass along to the 3 women who had positive gyn labs for cancer. She was to tell them to get to Dr. Faisal for final paperwork, get their certificates of indigence and go to Sefrou on June 9th to see Asma. Something didn’t compute, as he hadn’t seen any of the 3 women. Got to Fatima again to relay the message that the 3 needed to see him yesterday or today in the am-last chance so they can get to Asma on the 9th. One of the women-must be 80, can hardly walk, shows up at the Coop yesterday. Says Faisal won’t see her. Huh? So I escort her to the sbitar. Faisal sees her, gets her the paperwork and she’ll go to Sefrou next Tues. While I was gone, one of the other women showed up and was sent to the sbitar. Good reminder to check back that things are done-w/illiteracy and lack of phones, can be difficult to ensure good communication. Inshallah they can all be treated.
Then a friend from Fes came to town w/3 of her friends. She’s writing a Moroccan cookbook and wanted to get into the countryside to taste rural cuisine and visit rural weavers. I paid the Coop women to make lunch for all of us. (They normally have a small lunch together that one of the women makes and I join them occasionally, but this was 5 more people and wanted to treat everyone to more of a meal). We all ate together-friends from England, Australia, Norway, me and the Coop women. Zahra had her sister cook chicken w/olives and preserved lemon. The friends declared it the best chicken they’ve had in Morocco. Unfortunately Tara, the cookbook author, was having GI problems, so couldn’t eat it. Meskina.
Here’s an observation that I’m pleased to make. The requests I’m getting around town are less for money and more to help others get something done. This is encouraging that the people making requests are both taking initiative and want to learn how to do for themselves. Metalan: Dr. Faisal wants help with a grant application for computers for the sbitar. Marian is working with the new Tourism Assn in town and doesn’t know where to start on acquiring/building a “jit” (overnight shelter for hikers). Can I help her get started and make contact w/the Moroccan guide who was in town last week who has done this before?
Meanwhile, the cafes are buzzing late into the evening these days. Elections are next week. Campaigning is fierce. Flyers, networking all around. Fatima from the Coop is running for Belladya board. The Belladya is President of the Urban Commune for REK-kinda like mayor. The board is kinda like City Council. From what I understand, there are 4 women running and 2 will be on the board, so Fatima has an excellent chance. Good for her. Hopefully that doesn’t impact the Coop, as she’s an essential talent to the operation of Adwal. Of course, that just speaks to the importance of Leadership Development and succession planning-concepts I’ve been introducing to Fatima and Zahra, but no progress made on that front to date.
Embarrassed that I don’t know the name of the pharmacist around the corner. I stop and talk with her all the time, and if I don’t stop as I pass by, she calls out to me. A real sweetheart. Anyway, she’s proposed that she, Hind (Fatima’s sister) and I start walking together in the mornings for an hour. Love the idea. Inshallah when I return from Marrakech we can start.
Heard from OC friend Samira (born and raised in Morocco) this week on her travel plans to Tangier next month. She and her husband have bought a condo there, and she has family all over Northern Morocco. I’m gonna go visit her the 2nd week of July-will be so great to see her, see Tangier thru a native’s eyes, speak Darija with her, etc. Yipee.
So despite all the travel and time out of my site, I have to say that I’m excited to be going to Marrakech this week. In addition to seeing everyone from training-all 28 of us-will be the first time seeing most of them since we were sworn in last November, it will be fun to finally see Marrakech as well. Long-ass train ride tomorrow...go to Fes in the am, then 4 hr train to Casablanca and 3 hr train to Marrakech. Got reading material and language study material to fill the time.
Meanwhile, I'm in Sefrou today-get a little business done at the Artisana, then a birthday party for Jess and her neighbor friend Achmed. Achmed doesn't know his actual birthday (not unusual, as birthdays aren't traditionally celebrated in Morocco), so Jess gave him hers, and the celebration is tonight at her place on the roof. Fun!
B'slama.
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